Shopsmith Forums

I find it difficult to determine the depth of cut when using the cross cut sled and a regular blade or a stacked dado set. The blade is too far from the crosscut sled to get an accurate measurement. I know I can use scrap wood and make test cuts to determine depth, but I was wondering what other peo...

I need to create three evenly spaced 3/8”x 3/8” square through mortises centered on a ¾” x 1” x 23” rail. I’m using white oak hardwood for this project. The mortises are meant to emulate a traditional Greene & Greene detail feature used during the Arts and Craft era. I don’t have a stand alone m...

Recently I have had trouble lowering the main table to it's lowest setting (just before the table meets with the top of the headstock). The carriage assembly lock is totally loosened but the table resists to smoothly lower all the way. The lower blade guard is closed as far as it will go next to the...

Be careful of the slightest catch with something that big. Two days ago I had a 2"x2"x9" hardwood blank chucked into the jaws of my Barracuda2 lathe chuck and the end supported in a OneWay live center. The lather speed was set at slow on the speed dial of my SS. During rounding operat...

I use a 23 gauge pin nailer to hold small pieces while the glue dries.

How do you use your pin nailer?

Very nice! I'm curious on the proportions? Was it a custom fit item or just designed on the fly? The Hall Secretary was custom designed to fit in the entry hall area. The proportions are such that it is not too deep to be in the traffic pattern of the entry. The top opening lid was designed with a ...

Julian
The design is my own idea. I wanted to make something that was especially practical for ourselves and fit with the decor of the house. I drew up the plans myself.

The photography leaves much to be desired, but I'm glad you liked it.

This is an Arts & Craft/Mission style Hall Secretary. Top hinged lid is for charging electronics (cell phones, gps, etc), a drawer for keys and stuff, and a door to store my wife's purse and other stuff. Carcass joinery is tongue and dado joints, with face frame attached with pocket hole joinery...

I'm referring to the table height lock. The table tilt lock and carriage lock are fine.

I can't seem to keep my main table from slipping. A minimum amount of pressure on the table makes it lose its position.. The only way to keep it relatively solid is to really crank down on the table top lock, but I know this isn't good either. How can this be fixed? What should I look for?