Plywood Projectile

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Mon Dec 10, 2012 2:26 pm

Some instructions on ripping wood say that you shouldn't rip stock that is less than 12" in length; short pieces should be crosscut. But, if you decide otherwise and want to rip shorter pieces, you need to ensure that the edge of the stock against the fence is kept against the fence throughout the cut and until the stock is beyond the blade. One way to do this if the stock is wide enough is to stand at the side of the saw and use both hands to hold the stock against the fence as you move the stock through the saw. But if you're uncomfortable doing something like this, cross cut the shorter pieces using the miter gauge or a sled.

jayhawk · Post by **jayhawk** » Mon Dec 10, 2012 3:48 pm

I use a GRR-Ripper push block now after having a bad kickback.

dforeman · Post by **dforeman** » Mon Dec 10, 2012 5:20 pm

I've had this happen also once or twice. Sometimes you just have to experience it in order to gain the knowledge/respect for what can go wrong. Luckily, I've never had anything come back and actually make contact.

I have to agree with Pennview on the size of the workpiece. If I have something small that makes me uncomfertible ripping/crosscutting on the table saw, I will usually just turn to the bandsaw. If that does not work, sometimes I will just clamp the piece to the work bench/etc and use my circular saw or jig saw. If all else fails, I get out the old trusty hand saw.

stickthrower · Post by **stickthrower** » Mon Dec 10, 2012 6:07 pm

i have had a few kickbacks, had a couple connect, but nothing bad thankfully.

However, after watching that video of the saw, I want to pick up a few safetys. And the lathe, ouch. Jeez.

Nathan

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Tue Dec 11, 2012 1:56 am

Do what Heath said in post #10. Always pass the board past the blade. I have a hunch you were not using a riving knife. this or the upper saw guard will prevent such kick backs. Still - pass the board completely through the spinning blade. If you need off-feed support - get some!

foxtrapper · Post by **foxtrapper** » Tue Dec 11, 2012 5:52 am

If I'm understanding the OP's description correctly, you were free-handedly cutting plywood. That means the pieces can easily rotate on the table, and catch the teeth. This is a very good example is the wisdom of using a sled to hold the pieces securely square.

It also sounds like you did not take the pieces completely clear of the blade out the back of the table, but instead tried to pull it back (along side the blade?). Another pretty good way to ensure catching the teeth.

beeg · Post by **beeg** » Tue Dec 11, 2012 12:32 pm

mrhart wrote:On the last cut I pulled back my arms just a little when I was getting ready to go for the power switch.....BANG, the workpiece turned slightly sideways into the blade and was instantly thrust into my stomach. Good news, I had more plywood, and my abdomen is mostly steel as you could imagine . Just a redmark which is still tender today but now I flinch everytime I hear a power tool.

Was os wasn't I performing the cut correctly? I know I just momentarily took my eye/thought off the ball.

NO you were knot performing the cut correctly/safely. FINISH the cut, have the board off the table, then turn off the SS.

mrhart · Post by **mrhart** » Wed Dec 12, 2012 9:01 am

beeg wrote:NO you were knot performing the cut correctly/safely. FINISH the cut, have the board off the table, then turn off the SS.

My stomach and I agree with you.

bobgroh · Post by **bobgroh** » Wed Dec 12, 2012 9:17 pm

Good to see you 'survived' and thanks for letting us know. To all that has been said, I would certainly add that you should never skip using either the saw guard (with it's inherent guide and anti-kickback pawls) or the riving knife. Even so, with either you should use a decent push stick - i.e. one that is does not just push on the backend of the board (like the SS one) but one that has a long nose and a hook on the back. I made a couple of those out of some old 1/2" plywood and now use them ALL the time.

A sled is also nice - I use mine a lot and love it to pieces. But of course ripping long stuff just doesn't work with the sled.

As other's indicated, the problem typically happens when the piece can 'ride' up on the back of the blade. That is the danger you need to watch out for - you need to keep the material at the back side of the blade down hard on the table. And also you have to avoid 'pinching' because if the wood behind the cut pinches shut you are just NOT going to be able to keep your saw from pushing it up.

wingman2010 · Post by **wingman2010** » Sat Dec 15, 2012 8:29 am

I have two questions. If we don't use a roughing gouge for bowls, what do we use? On a crosscut sled, how does that work with the Shopsmith? Mine is not dedicated to table saw use. It seems like every time you change set ups and go back, there is no way you could get the saw EXACTLY where it was before. The kerf would get bigger every time it's moved. Same question for an extended mitre fence that I was thinking about marking exact lengths on for repeating a project in the future.