building a new work bench.

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shipwright
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Post by shipwright »

robinson46176 wrote: I am always fascinated by other peoples benches. Since we all use them differently there isn't really any one size fits all bench.
Did you see this one Francis?

Paul M
Paul M ........ The early bird gets the worm but the second mouse gets the cheese
keakap
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Post by keakap »

dusty wrote:The bench looks fantastic. I doubt that it will wobble on its legs at all (good and stable).

However, without cross braces immediately beneath the MDF top, I expect that you will have some sagging in the middle. MDF is quit stable but it will sag under its own weight if not supported.
Definitely second the cross braces idea. There's just nuttin like bein able to pound on something without having stuff flying off the bench. On my bench (just made a few months ago) I can do some moderate bangin anywhere on the top, but for the real serious heavy hammer stuff I have red rectangles drawn over the top of the legs. Those 16 sq in at the 4 corners is the same as pounding on the concrete floor.
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keakap
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Post by keakap »

eagleta2 wrote:...
I used a 36" wide solid core door for a top... the bench is really large, heavy, and dead flat. ...Geo
Samo samo- solid core door, but I used a 32"er. At 5'10" the reach across that span for stuff on the wall is all I can handle. What a coincidence: 36:32::6'2:5'10.

Btw, I anguished over my Heavy Groz iron vise hangin on the left front corner outside the leg, but turns out it doesn't bother the solid-core top at all. MDF I'd worry about. 2x4s on edge, no problem, imho.
Mark V 520, Power-Pro!; Speed Reducer; B/S; Jointer; ShopMate DCS; SS Tenon Master; Rip-Strate; Incra; BCTW; DW734; var. SS sanding systems; Wood River;
keakap
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Optical delusion?

Post by keakap »

Looking at the pics, are the angles a little deceptive or is the bottom rail at floor level?
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keakap
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Post by keakap »

brick1 wrote:Thanks, JPG.....I did consider the 2X4 on edge but was concerned about warpage later?? not sure how today's available wood would hold up and thought the MDF would stay flatter longer??

thanks, bill
I see your loc as Florida, so I can understand your concern about warpage. What I found with my bench, which also uses 2x4 basic construction (which I Love!) was that time spent at Lowes picking through the stacks of construction 2x4s to get the cleanest, straightest & lightest (for most) ones was time very well spent. Here in "paradise" (State Motto: "Humidity? What humidity?") where plastic warps and wood rusts, we take every precaution we can think of.
I sorted thru the 2xs in my "shop", after sitting for a few weeks (what's that word for stacking to dry?), chose where to use 'em per color, straightness, flaws, weight, and then cut to rough length.
Then I jointed one face and one edge of each piece.
Out came the old original SS rip blade and they all went thru before going back to stack for another couply weeks.
Then one 1/32 pass each side thru the planer and back to stack. After checking a couple times a day for a week or so with zero apparent change, I couldn't stand it anymore and started building.
There are a few pieces I haven't used yet that I spot-check every so often out of curiosity, and none of them have changed one iota, while I can see that other pieces that didn't receive such tlc do warp, cup, twist, bend all by theyselves. Makes me wanna get out my old Chubby Checker records...

I don't know squat about mdf- it's way too expensive for me, here- but I'm quite certain that if you condition your boards well, a 2x4 top should be easily able to handle the heaviest vice you can hang on it.
IMHO.
Mark V 520, Power-Pro!; Speed Reducer; B/S; Jointer; ShopMate DCS; SS Tenon Master; Rip-Strate; Incra; BCTW; DW734; var. SS sanding systems; Wood River;
brick1
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Post by brick1 »

Thanks to all for the input!!

I'm going to stick with 2X's on edge as i want to be able to hand it down to the kids........

that should do it and i'll get some more pics as soon as i get over the Christmas building mode.....

Happy New Year to All!!! bill


Brick1
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brick1
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Post by brick1 »

Hi all, I just updated a post from 01/01/13 by brick1......how do I get it up front?? it was an update on the bench i'm building??

thanks, bill


Brick1
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

brick1 wrote:Hi all, I just updated a post from 01/01/13 by brick1......how do I get it up front?? it was an update on the bench i'm building??

thanks, bill
When the original 'poster' edits a post, it does not get moved nor flagged as unread. Adding a new post and referring to it as you did will get the thread into the new post que.

What did you alter in post of 1/1/13?:confused:
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brick1
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Post by brick1 »

keakap wrote:Looking at the pics, are the angles a little deceptive or is the bottom rail at floor level?

Yes sir, the bottom braces are on the floor. I'm still contemplating feet of some kind. I thought since I tend to drop stuff. the floor touching braces might help me find things......and I thought also it might give me just a little more room for shelves or drawers, which will be done later....

thank, bill


Brick1
Titusville, Florida
brick1
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Post by brick1 »

JPG40504 wrote:When the original 'poster' edits a post, it does not get moved nor flagged as unread. Adding a new post and referring to it as you did will get the thread into the new post que.

What did you alter in post of 1/1/13?:confused:


Thank you for the help!!! I added an update and removed the first pics and put new ones up. All the suggestions for the top were great and then my
in-law found a school table top out by the road one day. I delaminated the boards and am now gluing them back up. some beautiful maple!!


Brick1
Titusville, Florida
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