Hello all. Just picked up a Mark V and trying out all of the tools. So today I am trying out the lathe (first time since HS in the 80's...) and I am noticing the head stock is becoming quite warm to the touch, to the point I can't keep my hand on it. I don't think this is normal is it? I recently did a go through of the head stock and all the bearings turned nicely without any noise. Is heat build up a thing with SS's?
Thanks.
Headstock heat?
Moderators: HopefulSSer, admin
Re: Headstock heat?
The Shopsmith headstock definitely gets warm, particularly when doing something like lathe turning where it is likely to operate for a long time.
I don't think it gets too hot to keep a hand on, but that's entirely subjective (some have more tolerance for heat than others).
Make sure you've gone through the maintenance threads and make sure you lube it.
I don't think it gets too hot to keep a hand on, but that's entirely subjective (some have more tolerance for heat than others).
Make sure you've gone through the maintenance threads and make sure you lube it.
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
Re: Headstock heat?
Excessive quill pressure to drive in the drive spur into the wood and against the tailstock will result in more heat buildup. Procedure is to drive the drive spur in with a non-metal mallet or precut grooves in the end of the turning stock for the drive spurs to seat in, place work piece between the centers, move quill until tailstock "flexes" and back off the quill until the tail stock is no longer "flexing" and tighten the quill. The headstock does get quite warm to the touch during lathe operations. More experienced owners will chime in so keep watching.
Regards,
Dwight
Regards,
Dwight
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JPG
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Re: Headstock heat?
I do not recommend using the quillfeed to 'seat'(force) either the drive spur nor the tail stock center.
That is best done 'on the bench'.
Tail stock 'flexing' should be a goal to eliminate as much as possible.
That is best done 'on the bench'.
Tail stock 'flexing' should be a goal to eliminate as much as possible.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: Headstock heat?
Thanks for the input. I was doing a little investigating and found a slight tapping or knocking noise coming from the spindle area. I checked the gilmer belt tension and it seemed a bit too tight, so I backed it off to get about a 1/8" flex and it caused the noise to subside and seemed to allow it to run smoother and not heat up as much. Keeping an eye on it though. Thanks again.
Bill M
Bill M