Reassemble a Shopsmith 10er

[BuckeyeDennis]

As you learn more about the 10's, you'll probably find uses for some of those extra parts. A lathe extension immediately comes to mind. If the motor is good, it could be a spare, or it could be used elsewhere. I believe it was Nick Engler who said that you should think of a Shopsmith as a big jig (or something to that effect). Extra parts expand the universe of possibilities.

[oldiron]

By all means, Take the entire machine if possible. It's a shame when folks who don't want the machines, let them be scrapped!!!!!!!!!!! They haven't been built in a long time and never will be again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Plus, you never know when you may need or want one of the heavier parts which rarely break....

High quality USA built machines don't deserve the junk yard. Go save her!!!

Mike

[gurrenteed]

I picked up everything except the way tubes. They were very thin (maybe not an actual magna original?) and had quite a bit of rust and even a couple good size dents. I told him he might as well scrap those.

After soaking a lot of the heavy pieces in vinegar, I was able to get a lot of the rust off with very little elbow grease. I think I might prefer this method over the electrolysis for the smaller steel parts. I ended up finding small cracks in a few of the pieces after getting them clean. Any suggestions on repairing these?

10er cracks

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Overall it was a great purchase. The SC was it great condition. I actually might keep it instead of mine. I'll think I'll keep some of these extra parts too, just in case I get an itch to Frankenstein something together.

https://youtu.be/_NmAFZMAfH8

Speaking of frankensteining, I saw this video on YouTube and bought all the parts to build an identical setup. I already have a 2 hp treadmill motor that I picked up on CL for free, so I figure it's worth a shot. After pulling the flywheel and taking some measurements, the smooth shaft is 5/8" and the OD of the threaded portion is 1/2". There were two v-belt pulleys that were with this 10er. One is a 4" OD pulley with a 5/8" keyed shaft. The other is almost 2" OD (1.9") with a 1/2 shaft and is NOT keyed, just a set screw. The 4" is probably too big of a pulley for a motor rated to 3210 RPM. The smaller is probably closer to what I would need, but I know it is not safe to mount a smooth bore pulley onto the threaded shaft. The fit is very tight, but no. Its probably not the safest... Right? Even drilling a hole for the set screw wouldn't be ok. I promise I probably won't do it.

Treadmill motor

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I looked online for some pulleys but didn't have much luck. Is the correct pulley size A or 4L? I guess I have more research and math to do before buying any more parts for the treadmill motor project. Maybe I won't need a speed changer after all.

[jsburger]

The early 10ER's had thick wall way tubes. Towards the end of production they used thinner wall way tubes. The 10ER thin wall tubes are the same wall thickness as the MK V tubes. So yes they are original Magna tubes. I am surprised they were dented unless they were truly not original. The thin wall tubes have about one half the thickness of the thick wall tubes.

As for the cracked tie bar. Yes it can be welded but it has to be done by someone that knows how to weld cast iron. It is a different process than ordinary steel. Tie bars are on eBay all the time. Just buy another one. It will probably be cheaper than a repair.

[everettdavis]

One of the keys as a general rule in welding cast iron is to heat the cast iron up to several hundred degrees in an oven for a period of time and hold it there, before actually starting to weld it. Some will put it back in the oven after welding and allow it to heat back up, then cool it down inside.

Do all the prep on the metal to chamfer it etc. so it is ready to weld before you heat it up, then the rod or filler material must be suitable to expand at the same rate as the cast iron through the repaired life cycle.

It has to be welded while it is still hot. Try to keep heat in and around it from falling off by keeping reflectors and the repair area hot.

Failure to do often will cause the metal in the weld area to heat up at a rate that makes the weld brittle, which will fail almost immediately at times, often ruining it for further possible repair.

Inquire how the welding shop you choose will repair it before allowing them to work on your parts, so you understand they know what they are doing with cast iron.

Everett

[jsburger]

One of the keys as a general rule in welding cast iron is to heat the cast iron up to several hundred degrees in an oven for a period of time and hold it there, before actually starting to weld it. Some will put it back in the oven after welding and allow it to heat back up, then cool it down inside.

Do all the prep on the metal to chamfer it etc. so it is ready to weld before you heat it up, then the rod or filler material must be suitable to expand at the same rate as the cast iron through the repaired life cycle.

It has to be welded while it is still hot. Try to keep heat in and around it from falling off by keeping reflectors and the repair area hot.

Failure to do often will cause the metal in the weld area to heat up at a rate that makes the weld brittle, which will fail almost immediately at times, often ruining it for further possible repair.

Inquire how the welding shop you choose will repair it before allowing them to work on your parts, so you understand they know what they are doing with cast iron.

Everett

That certainly jogs my memory. Thanks Everett!

[gurrenteed]

All I have is a cheapo 110V flux welder. My welding skills are the reason I'm so good at grinding, so I probably wouldn't be able to make this repair. It would be cool to try, but I should probably focus my free time on other things. Plus, the roommate (aka wife) gets a little bent out of shape when I use the oven for shop projects. Gotta choose my battles. Thanks for the info though!

[JPG]

I vote for just getting an intact one off E-bay.

[gurrenteed]

I have had this reassembled for quite a while, but I haven’t used it much at all.

I noticed yesterday while setting up the table for drilling that the table is way off from square to the headstock. I realize that I have to adjust it front to back to get it square, but I don’t know of any side to side adjustment. Any of you seen this or see anything I’m missing

[everettdavis]

Sorry about an edit I had to make above on page 1..... I totally missed the fact that the original link broke to My Google Drive that was posted when the data on Google moved to a new location a year or more ago.

If you know of more, let me know by PM and I will update them.

Since that time I have linked the Post titled "Shopsmith Large Format Drawings, Illustrations and More" https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/view ... 90#p185690 and that is where I now change the link to My Google Drive when/if the data locations change.

There are large redrawn exploded 10E & 10ER drawings showing how things go together. Hopefully that can help someone needing that.

The restored 10E and 10ER manuals there have a good bit on the adjustment and alignment.