You should have warned me...
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- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 34643
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: You should have warned me...
The pulley consists of three 'sheaves'. Two outer that are fixed and a center one that slides between the outer ones.
The sheave shown has the 'stop' that the 0-5 version has. Perhaps you have parts from both versions. IIUC only the numbered plate and the sheaves differ.
I have no idea how the crank screw got damaged.
The sheave shown has the 'stop' that the 0-5 version has. Perhaps you have parts from both versions. IIUC only the numbered plate and the sheaves differ.
I have no idea how the crank screw got damaged.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: You should have warned me...
Your floating (sliding) sheave would appear to be the later style. the very early ones did not have the sleeve in the center and if they were not adjusted properly the belt could rub on the shaft.amboyna wrote:I'm a little lost. Is this the sliding sheave?JPG wrote:A word of caution re the 0-8 speed changer. I would simply refrain from going above 5. Check the sliding sheave. It should NOT have the step at the bore. The step prevents adjusting until the belt rubbed on the shaft.
Never ever adjust the speed and allow the springs on the control screw to become fully compressed. Doing so causes the breakage mentioned above.
The previous owner did crank it to 8 where it scarred the crank shaft threads.
See photo 2.
early on the left, later on the right.
edit. I see Red posted a reply while I was still typing.
Last edited by rpd on Sun Jan 20, 2019 11:28 am, edited 1 time in total.
Ron Dyck
==================================================================
10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
==================================================================
10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
Re: You should have warned me...
The sheave shown is the one that came off the 0-8 version. So a normal 0-8 version does not have that part that sticks out past the pulley edge?JPG wrote:The pulley consists of three 'sheaves'. Two outer that are fixed and a center one that slides between the outer ones.
The sheave shown has the 'stop' that the 0-5 version has. Perhaps you have parts from both versions. IIUC only the numbered plate and the sheaves differ.
I have no idea how the crank screw got damaged.
Just saw your photo. Never seen the one on the left before. Sounds like someone might of done some parts swapping.
The outer sheave has scrapings that match where the crank threads were bunged up. They cranked it all the way!!!
Shopsmith 10E S/N 5804 restored.
Shopsmith 10ER S/N R39267; purchased 10-10-50 in San Francisco.
Bruce Brenner
http://www.vintagepbks.com/shopsmith.html
Shopsmith 10ER S/N R39267; purchased 10-10-50 in San Francisco.
Bruce Brenner
http://www.vintagepbks.com/shopsmith.html
Re: You should have warned me...
I have two different speed changer manuals. One shows the crank assembled on the pulley side of the main body. If cranked too far the pulley will hit the crank screw. The other manual shows the crank screw on the head stock side of the main body thus avoiding the interference.JPG wrote:The pulley consists of three 'sheaves'. Two outer that are fixed and a center one that slides between the outer ones.
The sheave shown has the 'stop' that the 0-5 version has. Perhaps you have parts from both versions. IIUC only the numbered plate and the sheaves differ.
I have no idea how the crank screw got damaged.
- Attachments
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- Speed_Changer1.jpg (94.27 KiB) Viewed 11946 times
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- Speed_Changer2.jpg (253.39 KiB) Viewed 11946 times
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Re: You should have warned me...
See, that's why I like this forum so much. I can just sit back and glean information and stash it away for future use.
Sent from my Moto Z3 Play using Tapatalk
Sent from my Moto Z3 Play using Tapatalk
Re: You should have warned me...
On the other hand, it it is on the headstock side the crank handle can interfere with the headstock lock lever.
With the crank mounted to the left of the ears I haven't had it hit the pulley, perhaps that is specific to the 0-8 model , mine are both 0-5.
With the crank mounted to the left of the ears I haven't had it hit the pulley, perhaps that is specific to the 0-8 model , mine are both 0-5.
Ron Dyck
==================================================================
10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
==================================================================
10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
Re: You should have warned me...
rpd wrote:On the other hand, it it is on the headstock side the crank handle can interfere with the headstock lock lever.
With the crank mounted to the left of the ears I haven't had it hit the pulley, perhaps that is specific to the 0-8 model , mine are both 0-5.
Which might be another reason they went with 0-5.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 34643
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: You should have warned me...
jsburger wrote:I have two different speed changer manuals. One shows the crank assembled on the pulley side of the main body. If cranked too far the pulley will hit the crank screw. The other manual shows the crank screw on the head stock side of the main body thus avoiding the interference.JPG wrote:The pulley consists of three 'sheaves'. Two outer that are fixed and a center one that slides between the outer ones.
The sheave shown has the 'stop' that the 0-5 version has. Perhaps you have parts from both versions. IIUC only the numbered plate and the sheaves differ.
I have no idea how the crank screw got damaged.
Uh Huh
and the one with it mounted towards the headstock is a 0-8 whereas the one with it mounted on the opposite side is a 0-5.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: You should have warned me...
Not sure how you figured this out. But you are correct. I have those two pages as well. I did a high resolution scan of both pages. Then I did a blow up of the speed indicator.JPG wrote:jsburger wrote:I have two different speed changer manuals. One shows the crank assembled on the pulley side of the main body. If cranked too far the pulley will hit the crank screw. The other manual shows the crank screw on the head stock side of the main body thus avoiding the interference.JPG wrote:The pulley consists of three 'sheaves'. Two outer that are fixed and a center one that slides between the outer ones.
The sheave shown has the 'stop' that the 0-5 version has. Perhaps you have parts from both versions. IIUC only the numbered plate and the sheaves differ.
I have no idea how the crank screw got damaged.
Uh Huh
and the one with it mounted towards the headstock is a 0-8 whereas the one with it mounted on the opposite side is a 0-5.
The first detail is from Speed Changer 1 showing the scale goes to five:
The second detail is from Speed Changer 2 showing the scale goes to 8:
- Attachments
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- 08.jpg (26.47 KiB) Viewed 11864 times
Shopsmith 10E S/N 5804 restored.
Shopsmith 10ER S/N R39267; purchased 10-10-50 in San Francisco.
Bruce Brenner
http://www.vintagepbks.com/shopsmith.html
Shopsmith 10ER S/N R39267; purchased 10-10-50 in San Francisco.
Bruce Brenner
http://www.vintagepbks.com/shopsmith.html
Re: You should have warned me...
What is strange is the fact that the page I pulled the 0-8 scale from has a speed chart that goes to 5. I wonder if they were already in the process of changing the scale.
- Attachments
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- SpeedChanger_Magna_01.jpg (198.32 KiB) Viewed 11857 times
Shopsmith 10E S/N 5804 restored.
Shopsmith 10ER S/N R39267; purchased 10-10-50 in San Francisco.
Bruce Brenner
http://www.vintagepbks.com/shopsmith.html
Shopsmith 10ER S/N R39267; purchased 10-10-50 in San Francisco.
Bruce Brenner
http://www.vintagepbks.com/shopsmith.html