JPG wrote:References to half turn once then half turn again and pull/pushing on the hub has me totally confused. What does the push/pulling do? What is the difference between 1/2 turn once and 1/2 turn twice as far as what they do? No I ain't gots one of these things .
What does the end of the lever arm bear against(shaft surface???)
JPG: Watch the video, above. Push/pull is to reposition the lever/arm. Twist clockwise is to lock, counterclockwise to unlock.
jsburger: there certainly were other versions but I think that was just table differences and other things having nothing to do with the arm mechanism. I'm pretty sure that the arms all operated the same way. It's a quirky and kind of counterintuitive tool and if you don't set it up just right, it won't work as intended. The threaded rod/wingnut is a depth stop. But you should be able to move the router up and down anywhere before hitting the set depth stop and still lock everything in place.
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
algale wrote:JPG: Watch the video, above. Push/pull is to reposition the lever/arm. Twist clockwise is to lock, counterclockwise to unlock.
jsburger: there certainly were other versions but I think that was just table differences and other things having nothing to do with the arm mechanism. I'm pretty sure that the arms all operated the same way. It's a quirky and kind of counterintuitive tool and if you don't set it up just right, it won't work as intended. The threaded rod/wingnut is a depth stop. But you should be able to move the router up and down anywhere before hitting the set depth stop and still lock everything in place.
First, Mine is the stand alone if that makes any difference (I would think not). I have not used mine since getting it but I tightened the handle and it does not lock it. BTW, I believe that is the way it should work.
I don't understand how it locks. The housing, shaft and pinion gear rotate together. I will take another look this week and see if I can figure out what is going on.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
I understand the 'procedure', it is the shape of the hardware that I am curious about,
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Stupidity apparently comes in several colors. In my case, in this instance, it covers the total spectrum.
After the adjustment handle is engaged to raise or lower the router, it's often left in a position that obstructs the work. The way to remedy that is to disengage it by pulling it away from the gears so that it's free swinging. This point is where my technicolor idiocy comes to bear. To hold it up and away, one simply re engages it at a better position. I've been leaving it disengaged and wiring it in the up position.
Maybe you can imagine the range of emotions that swept over me upon this discovery yesterday. From pure delight and relief to rage and embarrassment.
Ah well, I've only owned and used this machine for 20 years.
Thanks to you all for your help. I'm off to print the manual Algale posted. I'll read it, too.
Gene Howe wrote:Mine doesn't lock in place. The router stays in place but, the lever can't be locked. It drops down onto the work. Years ago, I resorted to using a wire loop to hold it up. Shoulda asked here long ago if there is a fix.
Thanks for any advice.
I have an almost brand new one I bought locally about a year ago. I have not used it yet. I went out to the shop today to look. There is no lock for the "lever". The router clamps in independent of anything else. As Al says there is a nut on the left side to tighten the up and down movement of the assembly. There is also the set screws to tighten the brass V wedge against the router slide assembly.
There is a depth stop rod that can be adjusted to set the downward depth. If you are missing the depth stop rod (mine was, it is 1/4-20) and the other two items are loose I can see how the router would drop down.
BTW, the lever does not lock anything. It just screws into the hole and is there.
The lever DOES lock when it and the gibs are adjusted properly. The locking is accomplished by twisting/rotating the lever arm once it is at the desired height..
Of course you are correct Al. I don't know what happened the first time I tried it. Chalk it up to a senior moment. Sorry to add confusion to the issue but I guess I was the only one confused.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
jsburger wrote:Of course you are correct Al. I don't know what happened the first time I tried it. Chalk it up to a senior moment. Sorry to add confusion to the issue but I guess I was the only one confused.
This topic was a fantastic learning experience for all. I had no idea what a pin router was used for until I read this topic and researched the videos and the manual.
I am getting a used SS router table tomorrow night and will likely spend the next year searching for the elusive deal on the pin router arm upgrade for it. I was educated on the Joint-Matic’s existence during my last visit to AllinOne but this pin router even more special.
Problem with this 5-in-1 Shopsmith system is that collecting the SPT and other accessories is an addiction.
I love these old machines. I missed out when shopsmith was selling them and had to find one used. Ended up getting one of the real early ones but found the parts to get it what was state of the art back then.
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