Shopsmith Forums

johnkgerken wrote:

JPG wrote:True fer sure. Also the connecting rod/casting holes are 'uniquely drilled' as well.

. . . What do you guys do?

Thanks,
John

We don't break cams!

However in thy case, I would drill half way into the replacement cam bore. Then only use a short pin to secure. That is similar to how the model 10 casters were made. A used(E-bay) basket case may provide the cam. I would NOT drill another hole in the shaft.

I encountered the uniqueness of the parts with reassembly of the first set I disassembled. Subsequent caster sets were marked at disassembly. A not obvious necessary step since all the parts are interchangeable except the castings(at least until drilling for pins). Yes I cracked a casting at the connecting rod hole.

Sorry I forgot about the alignment problem with the cams in my earlier post when I mentioned the Model 10 Caster sets. Maybe it was just forgetting a bad memory on a reassembly. The more memorable part was breaking the foot pedal wheel. In that case I did buy a new one from Shopsmith and was able to line it up and get the pin through. Your best option may be buying a used one with the cams already installed on the rod. Another place to use caution when removing and installing the pins is on the caster brackets to the tie rod. I use nails slightly smaller than the holes to help line up everything before reinstalling the pins. Another option is to clean up the caster sets without removing any of the pins.

JPG wrote:I would drill half way into the replacement cam bore. Then only use a short pin to secure.

I don't think I understand what you're saying here. Suppose I was to drill through the short side of the cam. Is the object to drill into the rod so that there is a straight hole through half the cam into the rod? If I don't drill into the rod, then what am I accomplishing? And if I were to use a short pin, how would I ever get that pin out if I needed to for some reason in the future?

There are cams for sale on ebay. The seller is Ron (r0npm) at his site The Rusty Dragon and if you feel the need to talk to him first before purchasing I have found he is helpful.

Good luck,

johnkgerken wrote:

JPG wrote:I would drill half way into the replacement cam bore. Then only use a short pin to secure.

I don't think I understand what you're saying here. Suppose I was to drill through the short side of the cam. Is the object to drill into the rod so that there is a straight hole through half the cam into the rod? If I don't drill into the rod, then what am I accomplishing? And if I were to use a short pin, how would I ever get that pin out if I needed to for some reason in the future?

Most likely any used cam you get will already be drilled. Then simply align the cam hole with the existing hole in the rod. Insert a pin that just fully goes into the shaft hole.

If you do have a (half drilled cam)(like a model 10) drilling(small bit) through the hollow roll pin and then enlarging that hole from the far end will expose the end of the pin and enable it to be driven out.

Screwed up last night and this never made.

JPG wrote:True fer sure. Also the connecting rod/casting holes are 'uniquely drilled' as well.

The model 10 cams were NOT drilled all the way through.

Then there are the later ones(MVII also) that have set screws and no pins.

The ones I have here ARE drilled all the way through. I have 3 sets in the shop and they are drilled all the way through. The other two sets are in the garage and I can't get to them right now to check. Hey Russ, what have you seen with the cam roll pin holes?

Two of the three sets in the shop have been refurbished and were done at the same time. I took both castors of the first set apart at the same time. I didn't mark them because I didn't know. I had the other set to use as a reference to put the first set back together. It was a real pain getting the cams back on the shafts since all the roll pin holes were different.

When I did the second set I had figured out what was going on and marked everything. No problems with that set.

Well 'my' 1947 (I assume the casters are same vintage) did not. That is why I know how to overcome the non-through pin removal. Yes many things changed over the few years.

JPG wrote:Well 'my' 1947 (I assume the casters are same vintage) did not. That is why I know how to overcome the non-through pin removal. Yes many things changed over the few years.

I don't think the castors are '47 vintage as the metal legs are not '47 vintage. Those early Model 10's came with a blue print to build an all wood bench.

jsburger wrote:

JPG wrote:Well 'my' 1947 (I assume the casters are same vintage) did not. That is why I know how to overcome the non-through pin removal. Yes many things changed over the few years.

I don't think the castors are '47 vintage as the metal legs are not '47 vintage. Those early Model 10's came with a blue print to build an all wood bench.

"research"reveals the truth of what thee said.

Original 'packing list' makes no mention of either casters nor bench legs. It does however mention bench plans! Installation instructions are also 'in the library' of documentation that came with the '47' for casters and a separate one for bench.

JPG wrote:

jsburger wrote:

JPG wrote:Well 'my' 1947 (I assume the casters are same vintage) did not. That is why I know how to overcome the non-through pin removal. Yes many things changed over the few years.

I don't think the castors are '47 vintage as the metal legs are not '47 vintage. Those early Model 10's came with a blue print to build an all wood bench.

"research"reveals the truth of what thee said.

Original 'packing list' makes no mention of either casters nor bench legs. It does however mention bench plans! Installation instructions are also 'in the library' of documentation that came with the '47' for casters and a separate one for bench.

Your castors may very well be one of the first versions that none of us have ever seen. Another piece in the evolution of the Model 10. Pictures would be nice to see how they compare to later versions. I can't imagine why one would design something with a roll pin that could not be removed easily.