throwing off bandsaw

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wood4me
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Location: Shenandoah Valley, VA

throwing off bandsaw

Post by wood4me »

After adusting the bandsaw keeps throwing the blade off the top wheel .....any suggestions....Thanks
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SDSSmith
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Post by SDSSmith »

wood4me wrote:After adusting the bandsaw keeps throwing the blade off the top wheel .....any suggestions....Thanks
On a Shopsmith bandsaw, the upper wheel should be canted slightly back such that the back of the blade runs against the guide bearing on the left hand side of the saw. You should check to see if the upper wheel is still canted back. You can do this with a straight edge and compare it to the lower wheel.
Rob in San Diego
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
wood4me
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Post by wood4me »

Ok thanks. Knew the solution was simple.
keakap
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Post by keakap »

Are the tires absolutely immobile on the wheels?
Blade running freely thru guide blocks?
Tension at least close to correct?
Mark V 520, Power-Pro!; Speed Reducer; B/S; Jointer; ShopMate DCS; SS Tenon Master; Rip-Strate; Incra; BCTW; DW734; var. SS sanding systems; Wood River;
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Gampa
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Post by Gampa »

SDSSmith wrote:On a Shopsmith bandsaw, the upper wheel should be canted slightly back such that the back of the blade runs against the guide bearing on the left hand side of the saw. You should check to see if the upper wheel is still canted back. You can do this with a straight edge and compare it to the lower wheel.
If this turns out to be the problem, according to the class I went to, grab the top wheel and push on the top while jerking forward on the bottom should get it back into alignment.
Enjoy a little sawdust therapy

Walt
520, Joiner, band saw, Planer, Dust Collector, 6: Belt Sander, OPR, Scroll Saw
bobgroh
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Post by bobgroh »

On my bandsaw, the problem turned out to be the old tires. They apparently had taken a 'set' over the years - I got it used and (my bad, I know) left it tensioned up for several years. Always used the same blade and had no problems. Changed the blade and the blade would not stay on. Put new tires on (the fancy orange ones - quite a job, by the way) and my problem was licked. You can be certain that I make darn certain I always back off the tension when I finish up!

There are other things that can be wrong - bearings, mis-alignment of the top and/or bottom wheel, etc. Do a search of this forum and you will find some nice threads on the subject.
Bob Groh
Blue Springs, Missouri (just east of Kansas City, MO)

--------------------------------------------
1984 SS Mark V updated to model 510
1994 SS Mark V updated to model 520
SS SPT's: Bandsaw
Other tools:routers, Bosch router table, Craftsman 6" jointer, Steel City 12" bench planer, Porter Cable 7" power saw, and too much other stuff (not really - just kidding!!)
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billmayo
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Post by billmayo »

Gampa wrote:If this turns out to be the problem, according to the class I went to, grab the top wheel and push on the top while jerking forward on the bottom should get it back into alignment.
I have straighten quite a few upper bandsaw wheels that was adjusted by the above method. Several bandsaw wheels were bent beyond repair when I got them and I still have the wheels for examples. I made a jig to help me straighten the rim on these bandsaw wheels.

Please remove the upper wheel and use a tight fitting pipe on the axle to slightly bent the upper arm. Install the wheel and check for proper tilt. I only restall the axle snap ring after the final alignment. It may take a couple of tries but will keep the bandsaw rim running straight and keep blade movements/vibrations to a minimum.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
bosox
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Post by bosox »

It could be incorrect tensions, worn out tires ( Good idea you've changed them already),
improper guide adjustments and blade tracking .
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