When I bought my 520 (used), it included quite a number of accessories, some of which I did not already have. One of the those is the molding package. The previous owner never used it nor have I, as yet. I'm not really sure if I ever would use it. Which brings me to wonder about others. Anybody have and use the molding head on the SS? What do you think of it? Is it tricky to use. Seems like, it could have the potential for being somewhat more dangerous to use than other functions or accessories. Might just be my fear of the unknown that makes me think that. I remember being very nervous about the jointer (in fact, never took it out of the box for months) until attending a class at Dayton many years ago where I learned how to safely use it. That fear became respect - that essential ingredient required to safely use tools.
So, anyone have experiences to share?
Molding package
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sswoodworker48
- Gold Member
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- Joined: Fri Dec 29, 2006 8:38 am
- Location: Johnson City, TN
Molding package
Rick
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Shopsmith owner since 1982
510, 520, belt sander, strip sander, jointer, scroll saw, band saw, dust collector, OPR, Flatmaster sander.
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Shopsmith owner since 1982
510, 520, belt sander, strip sander, jointer, scroll saw, band saw, dust collector, OPR, Flatmaster sander.
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a1gutterman
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 12:45 am
- Location: "close to" Seattle
Hi Rick,
I do not have the molder package, but I have wondered if it is something that I would like to have. I have made a list of suggested topics for the Sawdust Sessions on another thread, and one of the items I listed was for Nick to show us how to get the most from the molder. If there is enough interest, I am sure that he will include it in a future session.
I do not have the molder package, but I have wondered if it is something that I would like to have. I have made a list of suggested topics for the Sawdust Sessions on another thread, and one of the items I listed was for Nick to show us how to get the most from the molder. If there is enough interest, I am sure that he will include it in a future session.
Tim
Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.
Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.
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chiroindixon
- Gold Member
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- Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 1:42 pm
- Location: QCA Iowa
I don't own the shopsmith set but that is because I got mine before I had a shopsmith, and before I had a router. That would be pre 1976 and I have never found them to be anything but useful.
It is true that you need to learn what you are doing and make sure you follow the instructions and safety rules, just like any other tool. If you do that you are at no more risk then with any other tool. Two common problems are taking to large a cut and or trapping the work piece. Unlike router bits they do not have the option of an anti-kickback design so it is more importain that YOU the user take care.
Without going to the shop and counting I would say I have about 15 profiles for mine. I think that was nearly all that they had for it and I have not tried to add to the collection in the last 10 years or so, opting to go for router bits because of the use of carbide and vast array of shapes and profiles. (I still have some shaper and molding blades that I don't have as router bits).
As I recall the three insets use to cost like $10 but you paid more for some that came as matched sets like for ruled joints... but again that was years ago. Even at those prices a collection added up fast and I'm guess that the prices are higher today. You will also need a table insert either by purchasing one or making it yourself. And of course the molding head and if you don't have it the arbor to match. I guess I'm saying this may not be a really cheap when all is said and done.
Pre owning a jointer (another tool I had before my shopsmith) I was able to use the 1" wide flat inserts as a makeshift jointer. It actually worked quite well and was done by adding a thin strip of plastic (post cut) to the saw table top.
I don't have a PTWFE here with me but I recall they have a good section on molding heads which you might want to read over. The operation is common on other saws as well so if you have any general power tool books you might find additional information in there as well.
Ed
It is true that you need to learn what you are doing and make sure you follow the instructions and safety rules, just like any other tool. If you do that you are at no more risk then with any other tool. Two common problems are taking to large a cut and or trapping the work piece. Unlike router bits they do not have the option of an anti-kickback design so it is more importain that YOU the user take care.
Without going to the shop and counting I would say I have about 15 profiles for mine. I think that was nearly all that they had for it and I have not tried to add to the collection in the last 10 years or so, opting to go for router bits because of the use of carbide and vast array of shapes and profiles. (I still have some shaper and molding blades that I don't have as router bits).
As I recall the three insets use to cost like $10 but you paid more for some that came as matched sets like for ruled joints... but again that was years ago. Even at those prices a collection added up fast and I'm guess that the prices are higher today. You will also need a table insert either by purchasing one or making it yourself. And of course the molding head and if you don't have it the arbor to match. I guess I'm saying this may not be a really cheap when all is said and done.
Pre owning a jointer (another tool I had before my shopsmith) I was able to use the 1" wide flat inserts as a makeshift jointer. It actually worked quite well and was done by adding a thin strip of plastic (post cut) to the saw table top.
I don't have a PTWFE here with me but I recall they have a good section on molding heads which you might want to read over. The operation is common on other saws as well so if you have any general power tool books you might find additional information in there as well.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
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Ed in Tampa
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 12:45 am
- Location: North Tampa Bay area Florida
I have the moulder head and cutters and I use them. However I also have experienced a disaster with them.
Since I was terrified of them I made a special effort to hold the wood tight to the table. Well as you might guess with me putting all my weight pushing down to hold the wood tight I managed to cause the table to lower. This increase the depth of cut and the next thing I experienced was the wood being ripped from my grasp and a tossed across the garage. I thank the good Lord I was using push sticks and not my hands as both push sticks got hit by the moulder knifes and one knife was bent.
Since then I have learned to use my moulder head correctly. I now use finger boards to hold down the wood and I "lock" my table height. I make sure I take light smooth complete cuts and I will say the moulder head works flawlessly when used correctly.
I think my fear played a big part in my disaster, also ignorance. I really didn't think through the whole process. In fact I started the cut without push sticks and stopped almost instantly and got them and proceded. Again when the problem hit I realized how really powerful my Shopsmith was. It had no problem cutting into the wood about an inch before I lost control and the wood got flipped out with a huge bang.
Think through what your doing. Think about how to make sure the wood stays where you want it and how to keep your hands and body far away from the cutters and area where the wood would go if something happens.
Hold downs and feather boards are highly esteemed in my shop and they gain importance every day. I think as wood workers we tend to ignore or under utilized them. Big MISTAKE!
Ed
Since I was terrified of them I made a special effort to hold the wood tight to the table. Well as you might guess with me putting all my weight pushing down to hold the wood tight I managed to cause the table to lower. This increase the depth of cut and the next thing I experienced was the wood being ripped from my grasp and a tossed across the garage. I thank the good Lord I was using push sticks and not my hands as both push sticks got hit by the moulder knifes and one knife was bent.
Since then I have learned to use my moulder head correctly. I now use finger boards to hold down the wood and I "lock" my table height. I make sure I take light smooth complete cuts and I will say the moulder head works flawlessly when used correctly.
I think my fear played a big part in my disaster, also ignorance. I really didn't think through the whole process. In fact I started the cut without push sticks and stopped almost instantly and got them and proceded. Again when the problem hit I realized how really powerful my Shopsmith was. It had no problem cutting into the wood about an inch before I lost control and the wood got flipped out with a huge bang.
Think through what your doing. Think about how to make sure the wood stays where you want it and how to keep your hands and body far away from the cutters and area where the wood would go if something happens.
Hold downs and feather boards are highly esteemed in my shop and they gain importance every day. I think as wood workers we tend to ignore or under utilized them. Big MISTAKE!
Ed
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paul heller
- Gold Member
- Posts: 288
- Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 7:41 pm
- Location: Arvada, CO
Molding Package
On another forum, Wood Magazine I believe, the question was posted, "What is your least favorite tool?" So far, it has been the Molding Package. Most were Craftsman, but the same comments came out loud and clear. The tool seems to breed horror stories.
I have the Craftsman and a Shopsmith version, and have only had experience with the Craftsman on a radial arm saw. I made a picture frame, and although I finished it, the first attempt met with a piece of wood flying across the shop. This is probably my most feared tool in my shop. Unless I can figure a way to work without using my hands anywhere near it, I will probably use my SS shaper or a router to do the job easier, and in my opinion, much safer.
Every woodworker who posted on the subject, had the same comment. "It's for sale!" There were a few that have had success, but the nasty stories were the bulk of the comments. Blades flying off and embedded in the shop wall seemed to be quite common.
I have the Craftsman and a Shopsmith version, and have only had experience with the Craftsman on a radial arm saw. I made a picture frame, and although I finished it, the first attempt met with a piece of wood flying across the shop. This is probably my most feared tool in my shop. Unless I can figure a way to work without using my hands anywhere near it, I will probably use my SS shaper or a router to do the job easier, and in my opinion, much safer.
Every woodworker who posted on the subject, had the same comment. "It's for sale!" There were a few that have had success, but the nasty stories were the bulk of the comments. Blades flying off and embedded in the shop wall seemed to be quite common.
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Ed in Tampa
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 12:45 am
- Location: North Tampa Bay area Florida
Paulpaul heller wrote:That is one hell of a scary story. I'm glad you escaped unharmed!
I think I'd be too scared to use one of these.
Paul
I told my story not to scare others from using the moulding head cutter but to caution them to the dangers of using it incorrectly. If you correctly position hold downs to hold the wood in position the closest your hand or you for that matter has to come near the actual cutter is the length of the push stick you choose to use.
Look at a dedicated moulding machine, they are designed to capture the wood in such a way the only movement is straigth past the cutters.
By using a fence and having hold downs or a jig and taking reasonable depth cuts the moulder head is as safe or safer than a router table or shaper.
I know when my incident happened I swore I would never mount the moulder head again. But then I decided not to let that horse scare me. So I approached the moulder head from a new angle. How can I use this safetly and accomplish what it is suppose to do. I built a jig that clamped on to my fence that not only held the wood laterally but also kept in firmly on the table. Almost like a tunnel in which I passed the wood taking reasonable depth cuts (cut depth depends on amount of wood to remove and sound of SS when making cut). My reward was some really nice moulding that would have cost me plenty had I bought it.
Now that I understand the beast I actually perfer it to some of the other methods that can be used to accomplish nearly the same thing.
Ed
Sounds like my first time as wellEd in Tampa wrote:Since I was terrified of them I made a special effort to hold the wood tight to the table. Well as you might guess with me putting all my weight pushing down to hold the wood tight I managed to cause the table to lower. This increase the depth of cut and the next thing I experienced was the wood being ripped from my grasp and a tossed across the garage.
IMHO, part of the "Fear" comes from the humming noise the moulding head makes as it twirls!Ed in Tampa wrote:I think my fear played a big part in my disaster, also ignorance.
