Shopsmith Forums

I would assume the 'time clock' would start 'soon' as stated in the e-mail.

I sure hope it gets it up and running!!!

dusty wrote:Hum. Now the time clock is ticking, the warranty period is being consumed and Shopsmith is no longer the culprit. Strange how that works.

Hope this solves all of your PowerPro operational problems.

Ljayscott: "the 90 day full refund replacement period would begin once the control panel was installed and the machine is running!"

After a week spending previously planned time with family, I was finally on my own again and ready to install the new control panel. The panel came with a video to show me how to do it, but in reality it was how to install PowerPro innards into an original Mark V headstock. Still, I was able to derive the steps I would need to take, and not take, to replace the control panel.

Removing the belt cover, I then removed the power cord strain relief. That free, I removed the motor pan and was surprised to find most of the flathead motor mounting screws were loose. There would have been no danger of them falling out with the motor pan in place, but if the motor had run they would have rattled and increased run-time noise. I guess the 'line assemblers' who put these units together found they could save time not worrying about tightening these screws down...?

Belt loose, motor fully unscrewed and pulled away, I went to unplug the motor from the original control panel. To my surprise, there were far fewer cable ties (1) than shown on the DVD (4), perhaps since 2010 they discovered that many ties were not needed? Also, one end of the small plug was cracked with a broken piece falling into my hand: Would this affect the function of the plug? I didn't know and decided to wait and see once the new control panel was in place.


Motor free and safely put away, I removed the headstock from the waytubes, and placed it upside down onto a towel in the belt cover as shown on the DVD. I then removed the headstock lock rod & parts. One side of the rod had a flaw in the threading so I had to file it down to get the wedge lock passed that point.

It was time to remove the power supply and I went to remove the four screws holding it in place. Another surprise as two of the tinnerman clips weren't attached to the power supply but merely held against the side of the mount when the screws were put in. Was this another assembly line time saving measure? The next two pics, as the clip should have been, and how it was placed next to the mounting bracket: Power supply free, I pulled it out enough so I could unplug it from the control panel, but left it attached to the power switch. Removing the logo cover, I used a long handled screw driver to unscrew the control panel, remove it, and screw in the replacement.

Done, I properly attached the tinnermen clips onto the power supply and mounted it back in place. I added a cable tie where it was shown on the DVD to allow the cable clip to hold onto something. I found without it, the cable clip only held the cable from moving side to side, not up and down. Pics as the cable was without a cable tie, and then with the clip and my cable tie in place: PART TWO FOLLOWS --

PART TWO:

I replaced the headstock locking rod & parts and returned the headstock to the waytubes.

Placing the waytubes into the vertical position with the table on the underside of the headstock, I carefully aligned the motor's screw holes and headstock screw holes as shown on the DVD. Plugging the motor in, I added more cable ties as shown on the DVD, then carefully pushed the motor into the headstock making sure I didn't pinch any cables.

I put in the top flathead screws as shown on the DVD to allow the motor to be tilted upward and slip on the belt to the Idler Shaft bearing. I then pushed the bottom of the motor in place and put in the bottom flathead screws, the center flathead screws, and tightened them all down.

At this point the DVD said one could test the motor and I did only to get splattered in the face. For what this was about, see my new topic ''Is This Normal?''

Assured the control panel and motor talked to each other and the headstock ran, I put the motor pan, and then the belt cover in place. I then returned the work table to its normal position and lowered the waytubes to horizontal and ran the motor through its paces:

https://youtu.be/X62Z4DKqG4E

It's Alive! It's Alive!

I didn't think to try the reverse function or run the chart through its paces, I'll get to that tomorrow...

-- LJ

ljayscott wrote:PART TWO:

I replaced the headstock locking rod & parts and returned the headstock to the waytubes.

Placing the waytubes into the vertical position with the table on the underside of the headstock, I carefully aligned the motor's screw holes and headstock screw holes as shown on the DVD. Plugging the motor in, I added more cable ties as shown on the DVD, then carefully pushed the motor into the headstock making sure I didn't pinch any cables.

I put in the top flathead screws as shown on the DVD to allow the motor to be tilted upward and slip on the belt to the Idler Shaft bearing. I then pushed the bottom of the motor in place and put in the bottom flathead screws, the center flathead screws, and tightened them all down.

At this point the DVD said one could test the motor and I did only to get splattered in the face. For what this was about, see my new topic ''Is This Normal?''

Assured the control panel and motor talked to each other and the headstock ran, I put the motor pan, and then the belt cover in place. I then returned the work table to its normal position and lowered the waytubes to horizontal and ran the motor through its paces:

https://youtu.be/X62Z4DKqG4E

It's Alive! It's Alive!

I didn't think to try the reverse function or run the chart through its paces, I'll get to that tomorrow...

-- LJ

Outstanding. I think you will find the effort and money spent well worth it!

Congrats on the perseverance and patience. It will pay off!

This is great news and it is a red flag warning, all at the same time.

I am pleased to here that you are back in business. Your observations are disconcerting, however. I do hope that Shopsmith reads and reacts.

One comments based on personal experience: There can be too many cable ties. The ties, is not carefully located, bring stress to the cable connectors. The PowerPro, being packed into a small space as it is, may be an example of this.

As I said, I do hope Shopsmith reads and reacts.

I would suggest that Quality Control needs too pull a product "ready for shipment" from the line and do a tear down inspection. I would further suggest that be one a week, no notice, until the results indicate no further need. Costly, yes. More costly than a displeased customer, NO!

Interesting read. Glad to hear your up and running.
If I understand you bought the new replacement pro upgrade package. Which meant you were to have received a brand new Power Pro headstock in ready to run condition.

Instead what you actually got was a headstock that would not run ( board failure) but also was not ready to run, (loose bolts, floating tinnerman clips, missing cable ties, screwed up locking bar thread, broken clip) and you only had to wait a month. And you spent $2000 plus for it.

Personal opinion I would be more than a little upset.

Ed in Tampa wrote:Interesting read. Glad to hear your up and running.
If I understand you bought the new replacement pro upgrade package. Which meant you were to have received a brand new Power Pro headstock in ready to run condition.

Instead what you actually got was a headstock that would not run ( board failure) but also was not ready to run, (loose bolts, floating tinnerman clips, missing cable ties, screwed up locking bar thread, broken clip) and you only had to wait a month. And you spent $2000 plus for it.

Personal opinion I would be more than a little upset.

I hope the mother ship is upset as well!!!!