Shopsmith Forums

How can I tell if it needs replacement. I'd like to have the double bearing one, since it's on sale now. At present I don't have a problem this the original quill?

Hi Beeg
I ahve upgrade to the 2 bearing quill a long time ago and i did not regret it.
It is fdificult to tell whether the bearing is bad but if you remove the quill and hold the quill body and spin the quill by hand and you heasr any noise or feel any roughness it may be time for an upgrade. The 2 bearing quill offers a lot more stabilityy at the back end of the quill and reduces runout at the working end of the shaft. I saw the sale price and thought it was real good because mine cost $66 about eight years ago. In my opinion "Go for it"
Bill

Hi beeg,
If you already have the two bearing quill, I wood recommend that you knot buy a replacement. Just replace the bearings when they need it. If you have the single bearing quill, I wood recommend that you buy the upgraded two bearing quill, even if your current quill is working properly. Do knot change it out until you need to, but at today's sale price, how can you go wrong?

You asked, "How can I tell if it needs replacement?" The answer is; If you can knot tell, it probably does knot need replaced. Does the quill wobble? Do you hear "grinding" noises when the quill is rotating? If you turn the quill by hand, can you "feel" roughness in the rotation? Maybe someone else can tell you of other telltale signs.

Since you have a single bearing quill, You can either replace the single bearing with a higher quality bearing (202KDD5), replace it with a new two bearing quill or continue to use yours if you are having no problem. Depends on your wish list.

beeg wrote:How can I tell if it needs replacement. I'd like to have the double bearing one, since it's on sale now. At present I don't have a problem this the original quill?

If you need to know how to tell whether or not your Mark V has a single- or double-bearing quill, see http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... rn_Pt1.htm

With all good wishes,

TOO LATE Nick, I've have it on order now. But you had me scared for a bit. But since mine was built in 1980, it has the single bearing quill....for now.

But you did help, I found this on your list.

"Headstock made after 1984 (Serial No.190000) have a two-bearing quill. These
run smoother and have one-fifth the “run-out” as the older single-bearing quills,
making it much easier to be accurate when drilling."

Beeg: I just replaced my single bearing quill with the two bearing in a recent overhaul of my headstock. My old quill still had a good bearing but I could notice some runout particularly when using the drill press function. The new two bearing quill is super smooth - I kept my old one as a spare (although I dont expect to ever use it). I also paid more since I bought it in July before this recent sale! Steve

I purchased my SS new in 1982 and recently discovered it has the 2 bearing quill. I always assumed that I had the single bearing quill. After watching Nick's video on how to clean the quill, I took mine out, cleaned and waxed it and did the check with the long allen key. It turned out to be a 2 bearing quill! I must be lucky to have it in my older machine.

I hate to rain on Nick's advice (I viewed the video) but the original single bearing quills had a metal washer/retainer that helps to keep the quill shaft centered so the splined quill shaft can easily enter the Drive and Ring Assembly (#57) and is located around 3" from the spline end. The later double bearing quills have the second bearing in the same location. Since Nick had some side to side play at the quill end, I am sure the metal washer/retainer was present. If there is any side to side play at the splined end, it is a single bearing quill.

I find it easy to determine if I have a single or double bearing quill. I stand under a strong light and look in the splined end. Slowly rotate the shaft. If it a single bearing, the metal washer/retainer will also turn with the shaft. If it is a double bearing, only the inner race againest the shaft will turn. The bearing shield and outer race will remain stationary. If there is crud collected in the quill housing end, I use the long allen wrench and a cloth/rag to clean out this area so I can see what turns or not turns. If there is nothing on the shaft around the 3" depth, then it is a single bearing quill.

As a quick and down dirty check, I remove the quill housing and shake it. If there is metal to metal sound, it is a single bearing quill and the bearing can stand replacing with a higher quality C1 bearing. Sometimes the metal washer/retainer has been removed during previous quill repairs. If the front bearing is worn so that the quill shaft does not enter the drive and ring assembly by rotating the quill shaft, then the front bearing needs replacing at that time.

jayhawk wrote:I purchased my SS new in 1982 and recently discovered it has the 2 bearing quill. I always assumed that I had the single bearing quill. After watching Nick's video on how to clean the quill, I took mine out, cleaned and waxed it and did the check with the long allen key. It turned out to be a 2 bearing quill! I must be lucky to have it in my older machine.