Adapting Ryobi rails to SS. Alternative to 520 rails?

[Kenders]

Jerry,
We have similar idea's as I also have 2 Shopsmiths and was planing to do the same thing. This is the first forum I've ever posted on, so when I figure out the picture posting process I will post pictures of how I make out. I will be happy to share anything I figure out if it helps you, or anyone else that wants to pursue this modification. If you have any direct questions please PM me.
Thanks,
Kevin

[JPG]

PM is 'nice', but there are others that may be interested either now or later.

Good thing here is the openness that we all share our experiences.

Do not fear being wasteful of forum resources when working on anything of common interest.

JMHO

[gac5ss]

Jerry,
We have similar idea's as I also have 2 Shopsmiths and was planing to do the same thing. This is the first forum I've ever posted on, so when I figure out the picture posting process I will post pictures of how I make out. I will be happy to share anything I figure out if it helps you, or anyone else that wants to pursue this modification. If you have any direct questions please PM me.
Thanks,
Kevin

What is the best way for a non-machinist to mill the profile? Would a straight router bit be better than using a table saw? Whatever the method, hold downs and feather boards would be necessary. And a slow feed rate. Stock removal would need to be less than 1/16". I have never cut aluminum on a table saw or router.

[Kenders]

Thanks JPG, as how I'm new to forums as far as posting goes, I was just trying to be respectful. Jerry, If I was going to do it without access to a mill I would use a tablesaw, not a router. If you have a cast iron top saw it might be easier to mill the aluminum plates, as you will need to use an accurate method to move the fence. Personally I would use a magnetic base dial indicator. But of course there are always multiple ways to do things. You will need a hi tooth count blade, a little lubrication should help also. put a sacrificial fence on and have the blade just barely into it for your first pass. You will need a featherboard to hold it down, vibration makes a good finish hard to achieve. I always take some stock and do some test pieces, as I'm sure most woodworkers do.
Kevin

[gac5ss]

Thanks JPG, as how I'm new to forums as far as posting goes, I was just trying to be respectful. Jerry, If I was going to do it without access to a mill I would use a tablesaw, not a router. If you have a cast iron top saw it might be easier to mill the aluminum plates, as you will need to use an accurate method to move the fence. Personally I would use a magnetic base dial indicator. But of course there are always multiple ways to do things. You will need a hi tooth count blade, a little lubrication should help also. put a sacrificial fence on and have the blade just barely into it for your first pass. You will need a featherboard to hold it down, vibration makes a good finish hard to achieve. I always take some stock and do some test pieces, as I'm sure most woodworkers do.
Kevin

I have decided to have a machine shop mill the aluminum parts for the fence rails. For me the risk of kickback is not worth the savings. The machinist will also drill and countersink for the bolts as well. Now I can return the $70 80T metal cutting blade to Home Depot. I will take pictures and post them.
Jerry

[Kenders]

That's great, I'll stay tuned.
Kevin

[gac5ss]

I dropped off my Ryobi fence, rails, and SS tables at the machine shop earlier in the week. Hope to have them back by next week. Looking forward to seeing the finished set-up. Bill to mill, punch holes, and assemble around $200. I had previously bought extra rails, 510 tables, and 510/520 main table carriage. All told around $600 to convert a 500 to the SS Ryobi BT fence. To convert the 510 rails to 520 is around $575 plus S&H. Would still need to buy the other parts. So not a bad total considering. Only paid $60 for the BT3100, of which the fence and miter table are coming from.

I told the machinist I probably could sell a few conversion adaptor kits, but I think it would not be a good move because I could be liable if something went wrong while someone was using the SS Ryobi BT fence.

Pictures to follow.

[MartinH]

Wow, this is an amazing hybrid build. I also went to ebay and realized that my BT 3000 is worth more as parts than I paid for it back in the day.

[RFGuy]

Wow, this is an amazing hybrid build. I also went to ebay and realized that my BT 3000 is worth more as parts than I paid for it back in the day.

Martin,

Yeah, I didn't want to complicate your decision on your shop, but knowing you have a BT3000 and potentially want to get into Shopsmith equipment, I thought you should at least see what some others have come up with by marrying the two together. Of course, there might be wearable parts or parts that tend to break on the BT3000 that this may be a fools errand because of maintaining it into the future. I just don't know. I liked the sliding crosscut sled that is built into the table on the BT3000 so I was impressed when I saw someone add it to a Shopsmith Mark V.

[edma194]

Martin,

Yeah, I didn't want to complicate your decision on your shop, but knowing you have a BT3000 and potentially want to get into Shopsmith equipment, I thought you should at least see what some others have come up with by marrying the two together. Of course, there might be wearable parts or parts that tend to break on the BT3000 that this may be a fools errand because of maintaining it into the future. I just don't know. I liked the sliding crosscut sled that is built into the table on the BT3000 so I was impressed when I saw someone add it to a Shopsmith Mark V.

That crosscut sled was a nice feature but also a weak point. It slid on little plastic doohickeys that broke and the supply of replacements soon disappeared. I got a few more from a used machine to get mine going again but those were already old and brittle and didn't last long. I did really enjoy the router table that worked in conjunction with the fence and crosscut table. I also wish I had the mythical router table for my Sawsmith 2000. I have a box for one but haven't seen any sign it actually existed.