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Need some experienced advice on matching traditional pine available today to ponderosa pine that was available 40 years ago in our area.

I have the exact stain formulation they used 40 years ago, but need to condition the pine.

I understand moistening the wood to raise the soft grain.

I understand using a couple of coats of sealer to help prevent blotchy patches or grain reversal.

What I am trying to introduce is a pre-stain that will help bring the more red hues of ponderosa pine into the currently available pine.

I am not trying to age artificially per se, just introduce a red bias before staining.

Does anyone have any recommendations or proven methods I can work with in my samples?

Thanks,
Everett

not sure what brand of stains are available in your area but if you go to minwax, sherwin williams, olympia etc website they have color charts , I redid a old dresser years ago , had to blended 3 colors to match the origional . your lighter colors go on first then gently darken it . once stain is applied you may even need to lightly sand / steel wool the project to get it perfect .some paint stores have samples .some free and some they charge for . some places will help match anything you take in .

Is there a reason that you want to introduce the warm hue before staining, instead of adding it to the original stain formulation?

It occurred to me that you might be able to be able to tint the wood with your sealer/washcoat. A 1 lb. cut of dewaxed shellac makes a good washcoat. Orange/amber or garnet shellac would definitely impart some warm tones, but at the risk of the shellac color itself causing some blotch.

There’s a small color chart at the link below that shows different shellac colors on pine and various other woods.

http://homesteadfinishingproducts.com/p ... s/shellac/

Thank you both. I will definitely be playing with the sealer washcoat tint and work with some of the dewaxed shellac to see if I can get it closer.

I do use Minwax stains and Sherwin Williams paint. I have done some mixes before to try to match the stain on a minor remodel.

I was able to eliminate the blotchy and grain reversal by using Miniwax Pre-Stain and Wood Conditioner, and my exact match is a Minwax stain, when used on Ponderosa Pine.

I just can't get Ponderosa Pine in an H Wedge Trim here for my large remodel addition. I can't even find someone here who has it available to them. I need about 500' of trim.

Beyond the trim I have to send out the baltic birch plywood out to get it grooved to match the groove pattern on existing wainscoted walls, also stained in this manner. With the door trim, baseboard, cap mold, and 1/3 sheet plywood elements, I will have a good bit of matching to do.

I am matching the wainscoted walls to an entryway existing hallway where several areas including the remodeled area converge.


This area of work is not one I do not frequently do at all and 40-50 year old material that is no longer available locally does not simplify it.

Just finding the right trim profile has been a challenge and I am not set up to make it myself even if I had the pond pine.

If anyone else has additional thoughts, they are more than welcome to weigh in.

Kindest Regards,

Everett

I've been watching Thomas Johnson YouTube videos. He does restoration type work anyway he uses aerosol spray toners quite often to 'move' colors one way or another. Mohawk brand has several colors. Here's a link to a video where he uses a brown toner. It's about 4 minutes in.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMNpH_w ... ex=26&t=0s
Good luck.

BuckeyeDennis wrote:Is there a reason that you want to introduce the warm hue before staining, instead of adding it to the original stain formulation?

I just realized that I failed to answer this question in my reply.

Yes, the reason is that I want to use the stain on other wood trim and grooved baltic birch paneling that are not Ponderosa Pine, that do not need the color / hue correction.

Everett

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