Shopsmith Forums

JPG wrote:

thunderbirdbat wrote:

Hobbyman2 wrote:rule of thumb is cut length then joint and plane and then cut to width ? at times I have had to open the garage door ?

I usually cut to length plus an inch or two so that after I joint the piece I can then go back and square the end cuts to the jointed or reference edge.

THAT would be a better 'rule'.

I use mostly rough sawn stock. The fist thing to do is cut the stock to rough length. That mitigates most of the curve (if any) on the edge of the stock. Next, joint one edge to get a straight reference surface. Then rip the stock with the jointed edge against the fence to approximate width (+1/4). Next flatten one face on the jointer. Then plane the opposite surface to parallel with the jointed face and to the proper thickness. Then rip to the approximate width and joint the ripped edge to the final width. Now you should have a perfectly square piece of stock. Next cross cut one end to make it square. Then set the length and cut off the other end.

The result is a perfectly sized piece of stock.

I, too have a long narrow shop. It is an extended golf cart garage connected to a two car garage. The front wall of the garage was extended 4 feet forward for additional room. The SPT's were stored on a shelf which the Mk5 can slide under when not in use. If I need extra room I can turn the machine sideways when needed. Or I can move the cars outside and have the whole 32 X 30 garage area to work in. Recently I moved all the SPT's to stands in anticipation of back surgery. The bandsaw is on it's own stand and the belt sander is on the power station and the jointer is on the MK 5. I am under weight lifting limitations for some more months so I prepared.
I can do some sanding and segment cutting with the SS against the wall and I rip my rough strips on the bandsaw and then run them through the drum sander before gluing up the rings for segmented turning. Small shops can be utilized by being innovative.
Bill V