Shopsmith 520 ext tables

[shoedo]

Good Morning,

When you get a chance would you send, cjcvontrappmeyer@aol.com or post a few pics of your 520 augmented with 510 extension table/s? Thanks

[DLB]

Here is an example, please ignore the absence of shop cleanliness. I was in the midst of something else, but most of this setup was intact:

510 520 Combined

IMG_8552.jpg (750.65 KiB) Viewed 9977 times

A few points for clarity:

The only advantage to using the 510 bits here, compared to extra 520 parts, is their value. In the current market, I'd say 520 extension/floating tables seem to be worth easily double the 510 equivalent parts. My preference is all 520, but I'm not there and have higher priorities.

In this example, because I'm using the SS sled, whatever I use on the left will be at a different height than the main table to support the workpiece and cannot be easily connected to the main. Anything on the right supports the sled and will be the same height as the main. I set the height on the left to be co-planar with the sled extension table. For other uses it would be co-planar with the main.

From earlier posts, the OP does not have a standard (with base) extension table. You can assemble one from a floating table, a base readily available on ebay, and common hardware. There are other threads on this. I believe the base itself is unchanged, or insignificantly changed, from earliest M5 days. Any practical way I can think of to use 510 parts in combination with 520 needs a 510 extension table.

- David

[larryhrockisland]

Check out Doug Reid on YouTube for an outfeed table setup. I also sometimes use the legs in the drill press more.
https://youtu.be/mg9JazGDRag
I can see where your 510 floating tables might be useable in an outfeed setup.
Oops, I didn't see DLB's post above.
Cheers

[chapmanruss]

Lets see if I can add more clarity or confusion here. DLB example is one that can use the 510 with the 520 extension and floating tables together but note they do not actually connect to each other. Most setups it will not work as the tubes of the 510 and the extruded rails of the 520 put the tables at different heights using the connector tubes through them. The Model 510 and 520 Mark V's come with a Main Table, an Extension Table with legs to go into the SPT/Tailstock holes at either end of the Shopsmith and 2 Floating Tables that look the same as the Extension Table from the top but without the legs and hardware to mount them.

It has been said that it could be cheaper to buy used 520 tables as opposed to buying the new parts to change the tables. That can be true. To purchase the parts new to convert a 510 Table to a 520 Table you need the front and rear extrusions, 4 spacers, 4 screws (these are flat head Allen Wrench type), 4 washers, 4 nuts, 2 knobs w/ studs and 2 springs for each table upgraded. That will cost 167.92 plus shipping for each upgraded Floating or Extension Table. The screws, washers and nuts can be purchased locally for less than the SS price of $4.95 each. This should save about $50.00 over the SS prices. Shopsmith's minimum price for hardware is $4.95 to cover purchasing them and keeping them in stock. The spacers are a specific thickness/size to set the extrusions the correct distance from the table. The Knobs w/ studs and springs are for locking the Table to the connector tubes. They can probably work just as well without the springs and if I lost one I likely would not replace it on a Floating Table.

As for the front extrusions having the magnetic strip or not they will work together just the ones without cannot hold the scales. I have both and use with no problems.

[shoedo]

I noticed two shopsmith setups in your photo. How do you use the other one? I have two Shopsmith headstocks, a Mark V and a Powerpro. I intend to use the Powerpro with the tablesaw and jointer operations and the other headstock for bandsaw, jigsaw, and belt sander. Is there a combination of 520/510 fixed and floating tables on the other SS? I don't even know if this is possible from a configuration stand point but at this stage of my inexperience, it's what I envision. I am still reading and viewing videos to educate myself before I actually mess with any of the equipment except to clean and wax it. Thanks for your input!

[shoedo]

Thanks to all for your comments, it's greatly appreciated!

[thunderbirdbat]

It has been said that it could be cheaper to buy used 520 tables as opposed to buying the new parts to change the tables. That can be true. To purchase the parts new to convert a 510 Table to a 520 Table you need the front and rear extrusions, 4 spacers, 4 screws (these are flat head Allen Wrench type), 4 washers, 4 nuts, 2 knobs w/ studs and 2 springs for each table upgraded. That will cost 167.92 plus shipping for each upgraded Floating or Extension Table. The screws, washers and nuts can be purchased locally for less than the SS price of $4.95 each. This should save about $50.00 over the SS prices. Shopsmith's minimum price for hardware is $4.95 to cover purchasing them and keeping them in stock. The spacers are a specific thickness/size to set the extrusions the correct distance from the table. The Knobs w/ studs and springs are for locking the Table to the connector tubes. They can probably work just as well without the springs and if I lost one I likely would not replace it on a Floating Table.

As for the front extrusions having the magnetic strip or not they will work together just the ones without cannot hold the scales. I have both and use with no problems.

The 520 front and rear extrusions are really the only part that is not commonly available. The spacers can be found at hardware stores or you could make your own from wood, plastic or metal, just use one that your have for the thickness measurement. The springs are call "conical compression springs" that can be found at a hardware store, some big box stores also carry them. The knobs with studs are a common size that can also be found at a hardware store or a big box store. The mounting screws are 1/4-20 flat allen head but I forget the length. I will look for the measurements for them as I have them someplace.

[DLB]

I noticed two shopsmith setups in your photo. How do you use the other one?

That is a great question (this is what folks say when they don't have a good answer) at least for me. A few months ago this was two 520's, the second one is a 520 shorty with about 16 inches cut from the bench and way tubes. I had it set up as a semi-permanent table saw and jointer and was using the other one for everything else. This setup worked really well for me, I liked having it always set up as a table saw, and the shorty version helped with portability and storage.

Then I bought a DIY PowerPro kit and double tilt so the one in the picture is 'almost' a M7, and I find myself using it for just about everything. When the novelty of that wears off some I will need to rethink how I want these set up in combination. Before anyone says "two PowerPros," I need one that is portable because I own a rental house and sometimes need to transport it. I can put a conventional SS in my truck by myself without disassembly, don't think that is true of a PowerPro.

The uses of a second Shopsmith seem as limitless as the table system, but it is primarily the convenience of not having to break down a setup. Many forum members have two or more. Shorties, minis, dedicated drill presses, and Deputies all come to mind and I'm sure there are more. They can be dedicated to SPTs, dedicated to a specific SPT, sanding stations, or many combinations. There are a lot of great articles on these on this Forum.

My suggestion for you is to wait a bit, and see what tool you'd like to have in your shop set up and ready to go, then perhaps set up the second one primarily for that. Look up Shop Deputy on the SS web site, this was their recommendation targeted to customers converting to M7. Too restrictive in my opinion, but a good idea and starting point.

- David

[shoedo]

Appreciate the comments!

[thunderbirdbat]

I found my notes, the stock fasteners are 1/4-20 x 1 1/4" flat allen head bolts, 5/16" spacer, washer and nut. I prefer to use locking washers or nuts since they will not loosen easily. The conical compression spring is 3/4" long for a 1/4-20 x 3/4" knob w/stud. While the stock fasteners for the rails have allen heads, you could use any drive type bolt as long as it is a flat head 1/4-20 at least 1 1/4" long. The conical compression springs make it harder for the knob w/stud from backing out from vibration as the SS is used.