Jointer rebuild questions.

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pinkiewerewolf
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Jointer rebuild questions.

Post by pinkiewerewolf »

G'morning every one.
I have an older Jointer that I purchased off EBay a while back that needs some attention. I broke the plastic knob on the fence lock handle, (It shattered in my hand):eek: so I know that I need to replace that part. I have the replacement parts for the Cutter Guard from Shopsmith ready to go on.
The bearings seem to move well and there doesn't appear to be play in the Cutter Head so I think the bearings are OK.

The Depth of Adjustment Knob is very stiff to turn and I'm not sure that it is moving along its entire range of motion. What I can see, it appears to be free from any chips or dust so what should my next move be?
I'm also perplexed with the fence system. What locks the fence along the Fence mounting Bar? The fence Lock handle will adjust the angle of the fence for me but the fence is still able to freely move along the Fence Mounting Bar and I can't see how this is acceptable, nor can I find a means to lock it along the Bar. Is my Fence Quadrant in need of replacement? It looks intact and uniform in appearance, but something must be missing/out of whack.
I'm unfamiliar with Jointers so I'd like to get this one set up perfectly before entrusting my digits and lumber to its mercy.
Thanks for any comments on maintenance or set up that you care to share,
pinkie
John, aka. Pinkie. 1-520, 1-510 & a Shorty, OPR. 520 upgrade, Band Saw, Jig Saw, scroll saw, Jointer, Jointech Saw Train.:) Delta Benchtop planer, Makita LS1016L 10" sliding compound miter saw, Trojan manf. (US Made)Miter saw work center, MiniMax MM16 bandsaw.
Squire of the Shopsmith. ...hmmmm, maybe knave, pawn, or wretch would be more appropriate for me.:D
shydragon
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Post by shydragon »

The handle for the fence quadrant will move forward and back. Inside the handle are two different size hex holes. One fits over the fence lock nut, while the other fits over the fence angle adjust. When you are between the two nuts, the hangle should spin freely. I hope I explained this OK, but I'm not sure I did.
Pat

Oregon

1992 SS 510, 11" Bandsaw on power station, 4" jointer, Pro Planer, Incra Miter 2000, Incra Ultimate Fence Router Pkg, Grizzly 6" Parallelogram Jointer.
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

Pat is correct about the handle. Pull the handle to the outside nut, that will allow you to lock down the fence or move it. I forget the exact amount of travel, but your fence shouldn't raise more than 1/16" or 1/8".
Have you taken the jointer apart and cleaned it out, waxed the slides?
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
.
.

Bob
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pinkiewerewolf
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Post by pinkiewerewolf »

Thanks for the explaination on the handle guys. I knew it moved to allow tightening but i didn't know that it tightened both adjustments. I'll have to play with it today.

I haven't taken the jointer apart, I'll get into the garage and look for the best way to dismantle it...hopefully i won't shatter any other pieces in the process.:o
John, aka. Pinkie. 1-520, 1-510 & a Shorty, OPR. 520 upgrade, Band Saw, Jig Saw, scroll saw, Jointer, Jointech Saw Train.:) Delta Benchtop planer, Makita LS1016L 10" sliding compound miter saw, Trojan manf. (US Made)Miter saw work center, MiniMax MM16 bandsaw.
Squire of the Shopsmith. ...hmmmm, maybe knave, pawn, or wretch would be more appropriate for me.:D
judaspre1982
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Post by judaspre1982 »

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Last edited by judaspre1982 on Sat May 20, 2017 5:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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pinkiewerewolf
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Post by pinkiewerewolf »

You guys hit the nail on the head, the threads and the slides were more gummed up than they appeared when I looked into the jointer with a flash light. Gutting it revealed the stubborn gummed wood dust.
The screw is still a bit tight in spots but it is much better than it was before, I still have some work to do on it.
I'll check the handle later as I have class to get to right now.
Thanks again fellas.
John, aka. Pinkie. 1-520, 1-510 & a Shorty, OPR. 520 upgrade, Band Saw, Jig Saw, scroll saw, Jointer, Jointech Saw Train.:) Delta Benchtop planer, Makita LS1016L 10" sliding compound miter saw, Trojan manf. (US Made)Miter saw work center, MiniMax MM16 bandsaw.
Squire of the Shopsmith. ...hmmmm, maybe knave, pawn, or wretch would be more appropriate for me.:D
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

Did you wire brush the screw threads, then apply graphite?
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
.
.

Bob
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pinkiewerewolf
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Post by pinkiewerewolf »

I picked up some graphite this afternoon.
I'll see how it works before hitting the sack.
I did wire brush the threads and used some WD40 to loosen the gummed saw dust.
I couldn't find my brass brush so I used a little Stainless brush. I hope it wasn't to agressive for the threads.
John, aka. Pinkie. 1-520, 1-510 & a Shorty, OPR. 520 upgrade, Band Saw, Jig Saw, scroll saw, Jointer, Jointech Saw Train.:) Delta Benchtop planer, Makita LS1016L 10" sliding compound miter saw, Trojan manf. (US Made)Miter saw work center, MiniMax MM16 bandsaw.
Squire of the Shopsmith. ...hmmmm, maybe knave, pawn, or wretch would be more appropriate for me.:D
stryker1313
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Post by stryker1313 »

I recently did the same with a jointer I picked up on ebay. Mine had a layer of rust on the tables, so I tried wet 600 grit paper but that only took a little off. Then I used the naval jelly and that worked great. Buffed it up and waxed it and it looks like new. Now I just have to align the knives, something I am somewhat dreading! Good luck!
judaspre1982
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Post by judaspre1982 »

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Last edited by judaspre1982 on Sat May 20, 2017 1:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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