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I only needed 1 pint but HD only had 1 qt cans. Once you use some and put the lid back on it begins to turn to jelly. Many on this forum have solutions to this problem. I bought 1 qt over 5 years ago and needed some more today. It was fresh as new. I spent $1 for a bag of marbles. After using what I needed I just dropped in more marbles to raise the level to the top of the bottle. It can sit for 5 more years.

db5 wrote:I only needed 1 pint but HD only had 1 qt cans. Once you use some and put the lid back on it begins to turn to jelly. Many on this forum have solutions to this problem. I bought 1 qt over 5 years ago and needed some more today. It was fresh as new. I spent $1 for a bag of marbles. After using what I needed I just dropped in more marbles to raise the level to the top of the bottle. It can sit for 5 more years.

Good trick! I'm surprised HD actually had real 100% tung oil. I've only been able to get it locally at the Woodcraft store. It comes in a plastic bottle and you can squeeze the air out before recapping. But as the bottle get low, that's not practical. I like your solution.

Took literally forever to dry

This is literally not true, and makes your writing hard to take seriously. Now, back on topic.

It just soaks in and doesn't give any top coat, the wood just looked natural without any sheen.

This is exactly why people choose tung oil. That's the intended result.

You would expect it to be waterproof but nope.

You might expect that if you didn't do any research on how to waterproof wood, but if you did any research on that topic at all you'd know that a penetrating finish like tung oil is never going to provide that. Neither will polyurethane, for the record. You'd need something like epoxy.

I've had amazing results with General Finishes.

I'm glad you found something that meets your expectations. If it works for you, stick with it. Choose the right finish for your needs and do some research. Don't just blast something because you don't understand it.

viewcart wrote:Took literally forever to dry

This is literally not true, and makes your writing hard to take seriously. Now, back on topic.

It just soaks in and doesn't give any top coat, the wood just looked natural without any sheen.

This is exactly why people choose tung oil. That's the intended result.

You would expect it to be waterproof but nope.

You might expect that if you didn't do any research on how to waterproof wood, but if you did any research on that topic at all you'd know that a penetrating finish like tung oil is never going to provide that. Neither will polyurethane, for the record. You'd need something like epoxy.

I've had amazing results with General Finishes.

I'm glad you found something that meets your expectations. If it works for you, stick with it. Choose the right finish for your needs and do some research. Don't just blast something because you don't understand it.

Anybody have a clue as to how this is related to the post about preserving tung oil? I've read and reread it and see no connection.

I suspect a post or two were deleted from this thread. Or someone got mixed up with the threads as to which to put his post in.

Ed in Tampa wrote:I suspect a post or two were deleted from this thread. Or someone got mixed up with the threads as to which to put his post in.

The more likely of the two since tung oil is the 'subject'.

A fresh twist on spam?

just to cover the topic ,,regardless,, if it is spam or not ? I have had a can of tung oil for over a year and had no problem with it ,believe it is by minwax , it came in a can with a pop top lid . to the topic of using it ,, it can provide a very high gloss if done correctly , for a high gloss it should be applied with several coats and each coat should be applied with progressively finer sand paper , the ideal paper is wet sand paper used in body shops of one of those abrasive Brillo like pads . starting around 500 grit and proceeding all the way up to 2000 grit . a brush or sponge may not be ideal for the high gloss , it can take up to 10 coats or as few as 4 depending on the wood . for a satin finish a very fine steel wool after each coat dries is all that is needed. We have done a lot of gun stocks and coffee tables using tong oil and Boiled linseed oil . it is not the same as spraying polyurethane , lacquer or varnish . it takes time and can take hrs or days between coats again depending on the wood the humidity and the temps .but when it dries it is rock hard and very durable . my .02