Reactivation of 1960 Mark V 500 – Lipstick on a 500. Part 3

[allsas]

Reactivation of 1960 Mark V 500 – Lipstick on a 500.

Contents
Part 1
1. Loading/hauling the SS.
3. Jawa's and lost parts.
4. Second attempt to run the motor. Improved Test setup.
Part 2
5. Lipstick on a 500.
5. Request to Tech Service.
5. Pressure washing.
6. Proprietary Paint removal tools.
6. Sealed versus Shielded bearings.
8. Drive Sleeve Surprises.
Part 3
10. Getting a Buzz from the Switch.
11. Pits versus lesions.
12. Carriage Needed.
Reactivation Time and Expenses.
Definition of Reactivation of 1960 Mark V
Issues.
Part 4: Completion of the Reactivation w/Parts 1-3, URL's to references and more pictures available as an executable Parts 1-3 & 4 of Reactivation updated 11/03/08 Download and execute.


10 – 10-12-08:

In preparation for putting the headstock together the switch had to be reconnected to the motor. Confirmation on the connections was needed and a diagram was needed to confirm the connections. While handling the switch and connectors, I noticed a buzz. I checked the powerstrip to confirm that it OFF. I assume that there was a charge in the capacitor that was discharged when the right combination of switch posts are touched.
The headstock and motor pan had a day for the paint to cure. The fan sheave and floating sheave had white corrosion on the belt surfaces. These were smoothed on a piece of oak. The movement of the floating sheave on the motor shaft was checked before the headstock and pan were bolted together. After bolting together the operation of the motor was rechecked by plugging it in to the powerstrip and using the powerstrip switch to turn the motor on and off. Then the idler shaft, gilmer belt, and drive belt were installed. The Speed control dial, quadrant were installed and the quadrant hooked to the control sheave. Motor retested. OK. The speed control was adjusted to indicate the high spped based on the drive belt position on the fan sheave. The motor was retested and it tripped the 15 amp breaker on the powerestip. Eventually I found the drive belt had sliooed under the side of the control sheave. After it was extricated, the motor and idler shaft ran w/o tripping the powerstrip breaker. Finally got an marginally acceptable speed control dial adjustment by trial and trial. The Speed control is stiff in the middle range. The worm gear looked OK but the quadrant gears had some flat spots from the worm gear. The quadrant gears were waxed.
I haven't put the quill in because there are about three washers missing from the quill control assembly and I have no SS quill handles.

11 – 10-13-08:

Painted Bench and Way tubes after a lesion was found on the BEST Way tube. The other Way tube had discolorations but no spot that was as bad as the spot on the best Way tube. The Bench tubes had a lot of discoloration, but no really bad spots. Painted extension table with base color because sanding did not produce acceptable results.
12 – 10-14-08:

Painted Extension table red, Saw table silver, Sprayed clear gloss enamel on Bench, Way tubes, Saw Table, Extension Table, Bench castings. Made a test spray of clear enamel on the tailstock but it resulted in crinkling but smooth, an interesting but unreproducible effect.
[ATTACH]2180[/ATTACH] Parts waiting for a carriage, more painting, and assembly.

A carriage is needed. Reassembly is delayed, because the carriage will have to be painted. The painting session will use the next aerosol can to put additional paint on the legs and overspray on the bench castings and casters is not desired. So if you are listing a Mark V carriage on eBay, consider a Buy It Now price. By all means, upgrade your 500 and sell the carriage! Its worth it.

Reactivation time and expenses:

I usually consider that I worked on the 500 for 6 hours / day. That makes 60 hours to get the 500 to the point where painting a carriage and reassembly is needed. That doesn't consider the day spent on the bearings on the drive sleeve, and then working from 7 PM till 1 AM. It includes the time spent looking for something that I had in my hand 2 minutes ago. The lost items include the Tie bar, the brass brush, the wax rag, the scraping screwdriver, the carefully set aside bag of parts, .....

Machine Screws and Nylock nuts for the Legs $1.64
Hammerite Hammered Gold $16.20
Rustoleum Hammered Bronze $6.50
- Aluminum, Silver, & Clear Paint ---- $9.00
Screws, U clips, and Saw Blade Insert Screws $5.00
Retainer Ring Pliers set $8.71
Drive Sleeve Bearings $35.00
Pressure washing
Bench Supplies TBD
500 Carriage TBD
60 Hours for first 12 days
20 Hours to finish

Definition of Reactivation of 1960 Mark V 500.

The purpose of a reactivation is to get the device to use its inherent capabilities. This was purchased because more capabilities are required and although there is only one operator, changing a setup and then restoring the previous setup is time consuming. Another SS is doubly useful because the experience and SPT's are applicable to both machines.
Keeping the costs down for reactivating a machine is an objective. However, dressing it up is being done so that it looks as well as it performs, a high standard.
Issues:

Without the original manuals, I relied on manuals for the 520. A concern is what has changed and am I missing information. I PROBABLY could have obtained bearings from SS. I may not have needed to replace the bearings, but all previous references referred to them as sealed. I haven't found a commercial off the shelf source for the light color. Painted Way tubes seems like they will stick, stall, and be hard to move. The waxed way tubes on the 520 occasionally need an inline push to get them moving.

The most irritating event was not getting a response from SS Tech Service. The request that they answered on a rattle in the 520 was thorough, helpful, but it only raises their response rate to 33%. It would be helpful to know which types of requests get flushed or if a ticketing system would help.
I will need some more supplies and will try to extract information from the sales department on part differences and availability.

I didn't ask the owner that the machine be plugged in and switched on, partially because I remember Nick cautioning against trying an unused machine. The cost of a replacement motor should deter you from buying a machine that may need a motor replacement. This one may work and that expense avoided. If it works, it is the fortunes of DUMB luck. A powerstrip with a breaker would be useful to check the motor with the seller and in the shop. You might consider pulling the quadrant and the drive belt for an inexact motor test.

A list of parts and a careful examination of the parts and accessories may help you decide how much you want the machine.
Now, I could field check a machine, assess its condition, but still not determine its VALUE.

I would like to hear about Tech and Sales support. I've been filling in the order on the computer and sending it in. Maybe I've missed something. The one time I called in an order, the representative was helpful.

[a1gutterman]

allsas,
That is some overhaul that you are doing. Keep us posted!