Offset Router tables...

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pinkiewerewolf
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Offset Router tables...

Post by pinkiewerewolf »

What is the advantage?
I was surfing last night (since we had been talking router tables and OPRs in another thread.) and came across a site with offset tables and centered tables.
Is the advantage to the off-centered tables the ability to handle larger pieces?

It is one of those ideas that just never would have occured to me.
Thanks for any input.
John, aka. Pinkie. 1-520, 1-510 & a Shorty, OPR. 520 upgrade, Band Saw, Jig Saw, scroll saw, Jointer, Jointech Saw Train.:) Delta Benchtop planer, Makita LS1016L 10" sliding compound miter saw, Trojan manf. (US Made)Miter saw work center, MiniMax MM16 bandsaw.
Squire of the Shopsmith. ...hmmmm, maybe knave, pawn, or wretch would be more appropriate for me.:D
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

pinkiewerewolf wrote:What is the advantage?
I was surfing last night (since we had been talking router tables and OPRs in another thread.) and came across a site with offset tables and centered tables.
Is the advantage to the off-centered tables the ability to handle larger pieces?

It is one of those ideas that just never would have occured to me.
Thanks for any input.
Just where were you surfing? It sounds as though you found some interesting reading.:confused:
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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pinkiewerewolf
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Post by pinkiewerewolf »

Hi Dusty.
I was just going to different sellers/manufacturers and looking at the different materials used when I saw these:
http://www.woodpeck.com/routertopsmain.html
Are the offset tables just to be used on table saws, as an extension?
Then again the ShopSmith tables are centered so I'm still questioning the need to offset them.
John, aka. Pinkie. 1-520, 1-510 & a Shorty, OPR. 520 upgrade, Band Saw, Jig Saw, scroll saw, Jointer, Jointech Saw Train.:) Delta Benchtop planer, Makita LS1016L 10" sliding compound miter saw, Trojan manf. (US Made)Miter saw work center, MiniMax MM16 bandsaw.
Squire of the Shopsmith. ...hmmmm, maybe knave, pawn, or wretch would be more appropriate for me.:D
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perryobear
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Post by perryobear »

Hi,

One reason for an offset table is to allow additional space for mounting jigs.
This is a photo of a Rockler offset router table with an Incra Jig incremental positioner mounted on it.

I am sure there are other reasons as well.

Dennis
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pinkiewerewolf
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Post by pinkiewerewolf »

ahhh thank you, especially for the image.
I can see where there is a distinct advantage when attaching a jig.
John, aka. Pinkie. 1-520, 1-510 & a Shorty, OPR. 520 upgrade, Band Saw, Jig Saw, scroll saw, Jointer, Jointech Saw Train.:) Delta Benchtop planer, Makita LS1016L 10" sliding compound miter saw, Trojan manf. (US Made)Miter saw work center, MiniMax MM16 bandsaw.
Squire of the Shopsmith. ...hmmmm, maybe knave, pawn, or wretch would be more appropriate for me.:D
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reible
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Post by reible »

Hi,

Another is if you pop the router out like I do for bit changes and height adjustment... that way you have a place to sit the router. In some cases the router table is large enough even with the centered mounting as seen on the old shopsmith table/OPR setup...

[ATTACH]2314[/ATTACH]

Ed
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fjimp
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Post by fjimp »

I just today received the table and stand I purchased from Incra. Their support person suggested the offset table and a larger table than I was considering. His reasoning included the jig issue as well as additional stability of work work surface. I have often wished when using the shopsmith center table for more space to work with when routing. fjimp
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wlhayesmfs
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Post by wlhayesmfs »

I just finished a router table that attaches to my MKV and uses the SS fence. Was thinking about adding T slots for more add ons but have not gotten to that yet but sure like the size of the table and the convenience of being an extention of the table.
Any suggestion how to improve ont this?
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

This setup looks really great and you have done a fine job in putting it together.

What substrate did you use for the table?

What are the over all dimensions?

Does the proximity of the way tubes a factor in selecting a router? It appears that a large bodied router could be interfered with by the way tubes.

Once again, great job.
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reible
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Post by reible »

wlhayesmfs wrote:I just finished a router table that attaches to my MKV and uses the SS fence. Was thinking about adding T slots for more add ons but have not gotten to that yet but sure like the size of the table and the convenience of being an extention of the table.
Any suggestion how to improve ont this?
Hi,

You have a good start on a system. I have a few comments and some personal observations I'll share, and a couple of questions for you.

Let's start with the table insert. This looks a lot like one I have on one of my portable router tables from Sears. If so the little lines and marks bug the heck out of me. On larger pieces everything is fine but when you are trying to work on smaller pieces the pieces catch on the plate. I plan to replace that part on mine with a nice smooth surface. You can try it and see how it works for you but my guess is that you should look for another plate or make your own.

Speaking of the plate, do you have inserts to get the hole size down to very near the bit sizes? You really need the support and safety of a smaller opening for smaller bits so again keep this in mind.

Another question is how are you doing the insert to table height issue? You really need it to be a flat seam especially on the outfeed side or the wood will catch on the lip if the insert is lower then the table. I think someone said the shopsmith system uses woodhaven adjusters so if you need something you might want to check their system. There are other ways but that is a starting spot.

The fence you have shown will have limited use. Take a look at the additional fence that shopsmith sells to get an idea of what you really need. Edging applications require most of the bit to be inside the fence, jointing applications require the fence to be split and independentlly set to the amount that is jointed off. Something not easly done without some additional attachments. I have a fence attachment I built that takes care of the imbedded bit issue but not the jointing issue if you are interested I will post a picture of it.

I'm not so sure how happy you will be using the shopsmith rip fence when it comes to fine adjustments... just like when you are sawing trying to get that last nudge you need often results with 3 or 4 back and forth only to clamp it and find you are a hair off. After using it for a while you will either learn to live with it or find another way.

I personally would not put a miter slot in the table. I like using a sled rather then a miter gauge for lots of reasons, this again is a personal thing but I can not think of any reason for a miter slot in any router table. If you feel you want some place to mount clamps or the like you could think about a 1/4" or 5/16" t-slot or even a series of holes with threaded fasteners for that. You might want to use it for a while then decide if you want them and where.

What you have should work fine for you with a little more work. It is much like what shopsmith sells but I think the biggest issue will be coming up with a good fence option and is where I would start to look for a better way be it buying something or doing your own.

If any of the stuff I mentioned doesn't make since let me know and I can do up some sketches that explain it all better then words alone.

Ed
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