Stain/Finishing Question

bondoboat · Post by **bondoboat** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 5:31 am

Hi all,
I am working on a small bookshelf/cabinet that is made of oak. I will be staining and finishing this. I am looking for suggestions on staining and finishing. I don't know if brushing is a good way to apply finish with all the different nooks and crannies. I don't want brushstrokes, etc. Is there any other way I may want to finish this? Thanks.....BB

beeg · Post by **beeg** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 10:55 am

When I stain a piece, I use a lint less rag to apply the stain. Which top coat are you applying? Make sure your using a quality brush, and you should knot have any problems with brush marks.

kalynzoo · Post by **kalynzoo** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 11:58 am

Watco Danish oil has an oak stain oil that flows on without brush marks. It gives a hand rubbed finish after polishing. I've used it before on oak, it does have a long drying time before the oil smell dissipates. Minwax has a gel stain which I've used before. Easy to apply, rub on, rub off. But it accentuates any glue stains or imperfections. Personally I like to leave the wood in its natural colors, and accentuate and protect with oils. Just my thing. Good luck.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 2:50 pm

Staining by itself will not cause any brush marks. It is the topcoat where these occur.

To answer you "brush mark" question - which applies to topcoat - I use a (several) foam brushes and make long, even strokes. Sanding between coats will remove slight irregularities. Also - Don't brush over area that have started to cure. Let a coat dry, all by itself. It may dry irregularly, but when finally dry, it will look uniform. I have tried to "fix" missed spots with a small brush stroke - BELIEVE ME - this never works!:eek:

Like Gary, I prefer to use a stain - Danish Oil, by Watco. It goes on easily (it is first flooded onto the surface) then later wiped off and wiped down. Yes, It takes a few days to dry maybe sometimes a week or more, depending on the relative humidity and the ability (dryness) of the wood to accept the stain. During the curing/drying process - oil may seep back out of larger pores of oak. These small drops of stain must be wiped off of the surface. This may/will occur several times.

The topcoat I prefer is polyurethane. Bob Flexner recommends applying a gloss topcoat and then rubbing down to a satin finish. If you wish, you can buy a satin finish poly. I have used this may times.

Also Flexner has found (and I finally figured out) only one coat of poly should be applied in one day. This rule even holds true if Water based polyurethane is used. You should put on at least three coats of poly - sanding each dry coat before applying the next coat.

I use water based poly as can't take the fumes of oil base any more. But since Danish oil is oil based - the stain MUST be perfectly dry before applying a water based topcoat.

The final topcoat (three or four coats) also may take a week or so to harden. (The drying times on the can are the fastest possible given very dry air in the shop.) After completely dry - you can apply wax and buff. You can even apply the wax with very fine steel wool.

a1gutterman · Post by **a1gutterman** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 7:32 pm

I too, like to use poly for finish coats. With or without a stain first. Also, you might consider using steel wool, instead of sand paper, between coats, just make sure you get all of the small pieces of steel wool off the surface before you recoat.

john · Post by **john** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 7:46 pm

Depending on the size and construction, I usually try to stain and finish as many parts as possible before assembly. This reduces the problems you mentioned. It takes a bit of extra time to mask all the areas where glue will be used, but finishing is a lot easier on a straight board than a fully constructed piece. If plugs are to be used to cover screws, etc then I do these pieces after assembly.

As to stains or finishes, I use either gel stains or oil stains that need to be wiped off. Again easier done on a straight board. Wipe-on ploy or polyurarhane are usually my choice of finish.

Good luck.

John

fjimp · Post by **fjimp** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 7:57 pm

I use foam brushes and super mesh sand paper between coats of stain and polyurethane. I no longer use steel wool it can be hard on the surface and is nearly impossible to get all of the stuff off of the surface. The foam brush's are the best way I have found to minimize or even eliminate brush strokes. Thin coats seem to work best for me. fjimp

james.miller · Post by **james.miller** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 10:22 pm

Try Deft Danish Oil, you can re coat in an hour, it is a Tung Oil Poly blend. I have made my own with roughly equal parts of 100% Tung Oil, Poly, & mineral spirits. You can use Semi Gloss Poly if you don't want a high gloss finish.

To make a wiping Poly you can dilute it half and half with mineral spirits. I have had good success with many oil based varnishes by thinning them and wiping it on with a rag.

Formsby's is just wiping varnish (thinned varnish) and probably doesn't have any Tung Oil in it.

Flexner's book, "Understanding Wood Finishing" was a good investment for me.