Hi all, new member here, but the forum has been very useful over the past several years!
I found my SS in pieces at a Salvation Army store about 10 years ago now. We've made good use of it, after some initial cleaning and restoration. But all this time and I've only JUST NOW realized why it's only really been useful within a narrow limit of speeds
The previous (original!) owner of this piece never offset the motor.
The motor is on its original mount.
What should I be looking at for remedying this situation?
eBay has some mounts with the extended posts for not terrible costs, but I was wondering if there were any other options.
Different belt sizes?
Different motor pulley sizes?
Sliding adjustable brackets to more easily swap the belts around?
Threaded posts and knobs to smoothly adjust the motor position?
Anything I should know before experimenting???
Thanks for any advice!
-Warren
10ER Speed changer motor offset?
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- JPG
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Re: 10ER Speed changer motor offset?
I think a picture of what you have would help.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- chapmanruss
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Re: 10ER Speed changer motor offset?
Warren,
Welcome to the Shopsmith Forum. It sounds like you have been looking here for sometime and have now joined.
You have me puzzled by the statement,
As JPG said pictures would help describe the problem you are having. I have restored 24 Model 10E and 10ER Shopsmith Tools some with and some without the Speed Changer and none required a different motor mount from the original that comes on the Model 10's. It has slots for the motor to mount on and with the slots (90 degrees to the Motor Mount slots) that come on all the brands of motors I have seen on Model 10's there is not a problem aligning the pulleys and belts. Those motors include mostly A. O. Smith 1/2 HP, some A. O. Smith 3/4 HP, GE, PowrKraft (Montgomery Ward) and Craftsman plus a couple other brands. The picture below shows a Speed Changer in place on a Model 10ER with an A. O. Smith Motor. Although the belts look out of line it is the angle of the picture making it look that way.
_ .
The Speed Changer uses as it came from the factory a 22-1/2" and a 25-1/2" belts although 1/2" increment belts are difficult to find. 22" & 25" (4L220 & 4L250) belts work fine. The Pulleys that come with the Model 10's being a 2", 3" & 4" step pulley are correct and the ones that should be used.
I am not sure what extended posts you are finding on eBay when you say.
In case you don't have one, a PDF of the Speed Changer Instructions is below.
_
Welcome to the Shopsmith Forum. It sounds like you have been looking here for sometime and have now joined.
You have me puzzled by the statement,
I am not sure what you mean by "offset the motor."The previous (original!) owner of this piece never offset the motor.
As JPG said pictures would help describe the problem you are having. I have restored 24 Model 10E and 10ER Shopsmith Tools some with and some without the Speed Changer and none required a different motor mount from the original that comes on the Model 10's. It has slots for the motor to mount on and with the slots (90 degrees to the Motor Mount slots) that come on all the brands of motors I have seen on Model 10's there is not a problem aligning the pulleys and belts. Those motors include mostly A. O. Smith 1/2 HP, some A. O. Smith 3/4 HP, GE, PowrKraft (Montgomery Ward) and Craftsman plus a couple other brands. The picture below shows a Speed Changer in place on a Model 10ER with an A. O. Smith Motor. Although the belts look out of line it is the angle of the picture making it look that way.
_ .
The Speed Changer uses as it came from the factory a 22-1/2" and a 25-1/2" belts although 1/2" increment belts are difficult to find. 22" & 25" (4L220 & 4L250) belts work fine. The Pulleys that come with the Model 10's being a 2", 3" & 4" step pulley are correct and the ones that should be used.
I am not sure what extended posts you are finding on eBay when you say.
The only thing you need to do to change the belts around from low to high or vice versa is raising the Motor Mount after loosening the Headstock Set Screws the same as changing the speed without a Speed Changer.eBay has some mounts with the extended posts for not terrible costs, but I was wondering if there were any other options.
In case you don't have one, a PDF of the Speed Changer Instructions is below.
_
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
- chapmanruss
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 3511
- Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:16 pm
- Location: near Portland, Oregon
Re: 10ER Speed changer motor offset?
Warren,
Was the information above helpful to your problem or am I understanding your problem incorrectly?
The Motor should move enough to center the belt between the Way Tubes going to the Drive Sleeve Pulley on the Headstock. The Headstock Pulley should move on the Drive Sleeve Assembly's Shaft towards and away from the Headstock enough to center it over the Speed Changer's Floating Pulley. The Speed Changer's Floating Pulley is in a fixed position with the assembly against the Headstock. The Pulley on the Motor should have enough movement between the Motor Mount and the Motor Shaft to be able to center it under the Speed Changer's Floating Pulley. Normally, without the Speed Changer, the Pulleys are mounted opposite each other with the 4" Pulley Slot closest to the Headstock and the 2" Pulley Slot closest to the Motor. When using the Speed Changer, the Motor Pulley is turned around with the 4" slot then closest to the Motor as shown in the picture in my previous post.
The picture below shows a typical mounting of a Motor and the Pulley orientated for use without a Speed Changer.
_ .
You can see it is in nearly the same position as the Motor mounted in the picture in my previous post.
All Motor Mounts and their two Posts that attach them to the Headstock are the same from the first Model 10E to the last Model 10ER made. Something to remember here is once the Posts are inserted, flush with the bottom of the Mounting Plate and locked in place with the set screws they should not be moved to adjust the belt tension. Only the set screws for the Posts in the Headstock should be used for adjusting the Motor up and down.
Was the information above helpful to your problem or am I understanding your problem incorrectly?
The Motor should move enough to center the belt between the Way Tubes going to the Drive Sleeve Pulley on the Headstock. The Headstock Pulley should move on the Drive Sleeve Assembly's Shaft towards and away from the Headstock enough to center it over the Speed Changer's Floating Pulley. The Speed Changer's Floating Pulley is in a fixed position with the assembly against the Headstock. The Pulley on the Motor should have enough movement between the Motor Mount and the Motor Shaft to be able to center it under the Speed Changer's Floating Pulley. Normally, without the Speed Changer, the Pulleys are mounted opposite each other with the 4" Pulley Slot closest to the Headstock and the 2" Pulley Slot closest to the Motor. When using the Speed Changer, the Motor Pulley is turned around with the 4" slot then closest to the Motor as shown in the picture in my previous post.
The picture below shows a typical mounting of a Motor and the Pulley orientated for use without a Speed Changer.
_ .
You can see it is in nearly the same position as the Motor mounted in the picture in my previous post.
All Motor Mounts and their two Posts that attach them to the Headstock are the same from the first Model 10E to the last Model 10ER made. Something to remember here is once the Posts are inserted, flush with the bottom of the Mounting Plate and locked in place with the set screws they should not be moved to adjust the belt tension. Only the set screws for the Posts in the Headstock should be used for adjusting the Motor up and down.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.