RFGuy wrote:Alright, I know this is an old thread, but I just did this upgrade of the back bearing. I decided to split the bearing in two as suggested earlier in this thread so that the back bearing gives a groove for the back of the blade to ride in. In the pic below, the shim marked in red is recommended as 0.0625" thick. Some of the previous members that attempted this upgrade used this and had to grind down the mechanism that this screws into so that the bearing would shift to line up with the blade (when blade is under tension with the autotrak). I have to ask, why not use a thinner shim? I used a 0.015" thickness shim and it worked perfect here and aligned well with my blade. So, I did not have to do any grinding. I know there are different versions of the bandsaw, so mine is about a 1998 vintage unit (clearances may vary between revisions of the bandsaw). I have also done the Carter bandsaw guides on mine, I am not using the cool blocks, so no need to grind that either since I don't have them. With this thickness shim in that location, the bearing rotates freely, but I will have to see with time if this minimum clearance results in sawdust accumulation there that causes that bearing to not move. Just wanted to share in case this helps any future readers of this thread, but if anyone can see any pitfalls to what I have done feel free to voice them as well.
What did you do exactly when you say you split the bearings? The bearings have a radius on the edge of the outer race. When the bearings are side by side there is a natural groove formed. The shims used make that groove line up with the blade.
I did my upgrade a long time ago. Probably back in 2008 when LDH first posted it. My Band Saw was bought new in 1994. There was no filing required and the bearings were/are assembled per LDH's specs.
FWIW, I bought the Carter roller guides back when they first came out. I was using cool blocks before that. No grinding for them either.