Shopsmith Safety Grip (505625)

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dusty
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Shopsmith Safety Grip (505625)

Post by dusty »

My Miter Gauge is all back together using the Incra V120.

I had no problem getting it reassembled but I did have to use a flat washer to eliminate the unwanted wobble.

Yes, JPG, if the post is not screwed down tight in the large aluminum block there will be some unwanted movement. That is not the movement, however, that brought this discussion to surface.

The movement that I found objectionable was the handle (the grip) wobbling on the small aluminum block.

The hold down mechanism is "loosey goosey" no matter what and it needs to be that way.

[ATTACH]25404[/ATTACH], [ATTACH]25405[/ATTACH]

One side is flush while the other side needs a flat washer.

This video shows how much tighter the Safety Grip is after adding that single flat washer. I regret not doing this a long time ago when I first received the V120 from Shopsmith.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sbGUqFprnxw&feature=youtu.be
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The Miter Gauge Gap 003.JPG (22.51 KiB) Viewed 3034 times
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lightnin
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Post by lightnin »

Perhaps some UHMW tape could fill small gap
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I didn't know what a Shopsmith was...
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One week later I was rebuilding one...
Four months later I owned two....
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

lightnin wrote:Perhaps some UHMW tape could fill small gap
Do you mean the tape rather than the washer that I now have there?

Yes, that would probably work. There is very little motion in that joint so the tape would probably last a long time if not forever and the tape would occupy the space that is otherwise the open gap.
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damagi
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Post by damagi »

I ran into this issue a while back. Solved it by adding a nylon washer under the aluminum block as I recall (should go take a photo I suppose). That eliminated the slop.
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Post by shaun »

dusty wrote:No. I wanted to but there was not enough room.
The right way would probably be to get two thinner washer and do just that.
I would be very concerned about galvanic corrosion (even in your region). You could use something non-conductive (something like a nylon or phenolic washer perhaps), sanded/ground down to slip in the crack -- and one on either side would center up the handle.
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

I don't understand all the technical details here but you are probably correct. I have forced three dissimilar materials into close contact.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

I do not think that will be a problem unless it gets wet.:)
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

shaun wrote:I would be very concerned about galvanic corrosion (even in your region). You could use something non-conductive (something like a nylon or phenolic washer perhaps), sanded/ground down to slip in the crack -- and one on either side would center up the handle.
No longer a need for concern. This was still another good use for those unsolicited plastic cards that we all get in the mail. This one was from AARP.

[ATTACH]25490[/ATTACH]

Getting two that were concentric was a trick but I finally got two that "were close enough".
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

dusty wrote:No longer a need for concern. This was still another good use for those unsolicited plastic cards that we all get in the mail. This one was from AARP.

[ATTACH]25490[/ATTACH]

Getting two that were concentric was a trick but I finally got two that "were close enough".
Look from the open bottom of the die to center.;)
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

[quote="JPG40504"]Look from the open bottom of the die to center.]
I thought I was doing that. You can see just how poor a job I did at that. Look at the card -- not the one good plastic washer.

It I had more to do, I would have to develop some sort of jig.
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