Shopsmith Jointer

[forrestb]

Not sure where to put this but I am reviewing the Shopsmith Jointer, I think.

For those on the Forum who purchase used Shopsmith items, I suggest that you look at the 505681-B Jointer 3 blade wedges (P/N 521945) for condition before you buy it.

From Shopsmith CS today:

"Our wedges now have 5 holes and you would have to order a new cutter head if yours has 3 holes."

And they didn't change the P/N nor the Exploded Parts Diagram, ala GM.

Fortunately, they are well made to begin with and should outlast our planet, but if any are missing from that used jointer, beware.

Forrest

PS I may have missed past Forum traffic on this, but here it is again.

PPS Having just installed re-honed blades I shudder to think the affect on blade height when tightening 5 screws instead of 3.

[JPG]

I do not think two more screws will affect height. I do not see 3 affecting it????

[garys]

It should work fine either way, and 5 screws might be just a bit more secure than 3 were.

[forrestb]

I do not think two more screws will affect height. I do not see 3 affecting it????

Well, I have just witnessed that affect on blade height when I installed blades.

And the Shopsmith Jointer Manual page 14 says:

"11. Completely tighten the wedge locking screws. [Then telling how to do that]

12. Recheck the knife height. … (Tightening the screws may move the knife slightly. If this happens, loosen the wedge locking screws and pop the wedge loose again. Then re-adjust the knife position, compensating for movement)."

If 3 will move it, 5 could move it more! The "slight" movement I just experienced was almost 1/16 inch when dragging a straight edge per the manual. To try to minimize that, I use 600 grit paper to clean the all the mating surfaces (wedge, blade, height adjusting screw head, cutter head).

The manual suggest using the blade height adjusting screws to pop the wedge, but I have found that those screws are pretty close to where they should be so I turn them in a very slight amount and use a metal bar to reach under one edge of the wedge and pry up. It pops nicely and my height adjusting screws are now very close to where they should be making final adjustment less time consuming.

Forrest

[JPG]

I have found that the later movement of the blades is minimized(eliminated) by careful snugging the wedges and never adjust the height screws 'down'. Only adjust the screws 'up' so as to maintain close contact with the blades.

If you get them too high, you do indeed need to back up and start over.

[wa2crk]

Sure would like to have a three hole and a five hole wedge side by side for a comparison. If I were to do a redesign I would add the holes equidistant between each of the end holes and the center hole. That would make the wedges interchangeable. Wouldn't it?
Bill V

[BuckeyeDennis]

Sure would like to have a three hole and a five hole wedge side by side for a comparison. If I were to do a redesign I would add the holes equidistant between each of the end holes and the center hole. That would make the wedges interchangeable. Wouldn't it?
Bill V

I was thinking exactly the same thing this morning. But then when I saw your post, I had a "Duh!" moment. In addition to my Type C jointer, I have a Model 4E jointer that came with my 10ER. I don't know for certain, but I'd bet that the head & wedges are the same as the early Mark V jointers.

It turns out that the the 5-hole wedges extend almost the full length of the knives, which necessitates two additional holes in the wedges in order to access the jack screws. Hence 5 holes, instead of three. As best as I could measure without dismounting the wedges, the clamp-screw spacing is consistent at 1.25". But the jack screw spacing was changed by about 1/8" when they went to the 5-hole design. So a 5-hole wedge can't be used on a 3-hole style head, because it wouldn't provide access to the jack screws.

Jointer wedges.JPG (47.17 KiB) Viewed 6519 times

[JPG]

Looks like elongated jack screw access holes would work with either.

Also the 3 / 5 screw 'debate' becomes moot.

Any one determine if the cross section is the same?

[wa2crk]

Am I to understand that the 5 holes in the new wedge are not all used as clamp screw holes? Are the two new holes only for access to the jacking screws? From looking at the pic of the Type "C" jointer I might be tempted to try the "hacksaw" remedy.
Bill V

[dusty]

Am I to understand that the 5 holes in the new wedge are not all used as clamp screw holes? Are the two new holes only for access to the jacking screws? From looking at the pic of the Type "C" jointer I might be tempted to try the "hacksaw" remedy.
Bill V

Yes, the two outside holes are for access to the "jack screws". The other three are the screws that secure the wedge to the cutter head.

What pray tell are you thinking about for a "hacksaw remedy".