Rpm
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Rpm
Can anyone correlate the letter on the speed setting to RPM’s? Or point me to where I can find this conversion. I want to set my lathe to a specific RPM to match the work. I fell like I am guessing when I set it on "g"
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cincinnati
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chiroindixon
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Ah...one of my pet SS peeves.....
Why the speed changer has letters instead of numbers for RPM, and my Power Station decal has other numbers unrelated it's RPM or uses, is beyond me.
No one is asking for NASA or NASCAR accuracy....the speeds are approximate and get fine tuned by the operator.... But "Slow"/A (750)....?? to "W"/Fast (5200 or so)..... and my Power Station 1-9 (850-3850)....?
And then I have to buy a chart? Very simple revisions of the speed changer dial and the power station decal should have been done long ago....
It's stuff like this that makes a SS seem like a toy instead of the fine machine it is. My machinist neighbor just shook his head when he saw the speed settings..."Mickey Mouse".....
Doc
Why the speed changer has letters instead of numbers for RPM, and my Power Station decal has other numbers unrelated it's RPM or uses, is beyond me.
No one is asking for NASA or NASCAR accuracy....the speeds are approximate and get fine tuned by the operator.... But "Slow"/A (750)....?? to "W"/Fast (5200 or so)..... and my Power Station 1-9 (850-3850)....?
And then I have to buy a chart? Very simple revisions of the speed changer dial and the power station decal should have been done long ago....
It's stuff like this that makes a SS seem like a toy instead of the fine machine it is. My machinist neighbor just shook his head when he saw the speed settings..."Mickey Mouse".....
Doc
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paulmcohen
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paul269 wrote:Can anyone correlate the letter on the speed setting to RPM’s? Or point me to where I can find this conversion. I want to set my lathe to a specific RPM to match the work. I fell like I am guessing when I set it on "g"
I created this, hope it helps.
[ATTACH]1102[/ATTACH]
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Shopsmith Speed Chart.doc- (42 KiB) Downloaded 1225 times
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
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paulmcohen
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Fri Dec 08, 2006 8:10 pm
- Location: Beaverton, Oregon
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chiroindixon wrote:Ah...one of my pet SS peeves.....
Why the speed changer has letters instead of numbers for RPM, and my Power Station decal has other numbers unrelated it's RPM or uses, is beyond me.
No one is asking for NASA or NASCAR accuracy....the speeds are approximate and get fine tuned by the operator.... But "Slow"/A (750)....?? to "W"/Fast (5200 or so)..... and my Power Station 1-9 (850-3850)....?
And then I have to buy a chart? Very simple revisions of the speed changer dial and the power station decal should have been done long ago....
It's stuff like this that makes a SS seem like a toy instead of the fine machine it is. My machinist neighbor just shook his head when he saw the speed settings..."Mickey Mouse".....
Doc
There is a good reason, there are three three ways to connect to the headstock (one on the front and two on the back) and a speed reducer and speed increaser for the front. There is also a published design for adding a speed-reducer on the back for the bandsaw for cutting metal.
Putting all the different speeds on the dial would be confusing and inaccurate. Now why the chart is not a label on the machine is another question. My new machine came with the basic chart and it had a lot more information then just the RPM. The RPM chart was 5% of the chart in the bottom corner. The original chart listed every SPT and mode and many possible operations and suggested speeds in both RPM and letter.
Foe example under table saw they list speeds for Genneral Sawing, Heavy Ripping, Trim custs, dado and ider for Hardwood and softwood. For all the various sanders (disc, drum, belt, strip) they give speeds for both hardwood and softwood.
BTW: Does anyone know what "ider" is I am thinking it is a type for Molder.
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
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chiroindixon
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- Location: QCA Iowa
Paul Cohen,
You made my point exactly......
I'm reminded of debate I had with "Dean, the Don of Engineering", in '98 (?) after I complained about my Mark V being supplied with "Chinese Square nuts" rather than a standard nut that fits a socket wrench... "No need"....
Then he argued with me about the tolerances that "engineers" and " machinists" demanded that were in excess of what is needed for wood. From my recollection, being within a 1/16" was good enough. "Wood moves" and I agree....but to him, a circular saw and eyeball was "Good enough"...
I bought my Mark V thinking I could do real furniture making. (Which I have.)
I knew that a Mark V could do it. He, a Shopsmith somebody, did not....
Shopsmith, despite the heroic efforts of service folks, and the the new push by Nick, is still mired by vestiges of the "brain dead" like Dean. They do not see SS moving into a market of retirees (sorry guys) who are used to products that perform....period.
The current speed dial setting and engravings are complete BS....SS long ago could have figured out a very simple setting and marking on their tools....but chose not to do so.
This ain't a religion, guys and gals....There are things that are just stupid, and can be fixed easily. There is no need for my neighbor to declare "Mickey Mouse" when it could be simple.....
I want the best for Shopsmith....but self inflicted wounds are tough...
Doc
You made my point exactly......
I'm reminded of debate I had with "Dean, the Don of Engineering", in '98 (?) after I complained about my Mark V being supplied with "Chinese Square nuts" rather than a standard nut that fits a socket wrench... "No need"....
Then he argued with me about the tolerances that "engineers" and " machinists" demanded that were in excess of what is needed for wood. From my recollection, being within a 1/16" was good enough. "Wood moves" and I agree....but to him, a circular saw and eyeball was "Good enough"...
I bought my Mark V thinking I could do real furniture making. (Which I have.)
I knew that a Mark V could do it. He, a Shopsmith somebody, did not....
Shopsmith, despite the heroic efforts of service folks, and the the new push by Nick, is still mired by vestiges of the "brain dead" like Dean. They do not see SS moving into a market of retirees (sorry guys) who are used to products that perform....period.
The current speed dial setting and engravings are complete BS....SS long ago could have figured out a very simple setting and marking on their tools....but chose not to do so.
This ain't a religion, guys and gals....There are things that are just stupid, and can be fixed easily. There is no need for my neighbor to declare "Mickey Mouse" when it could be simple.....
I want the best for Shopsmith....but self inflicted wounds are tough...
Doc
Hi,
Can't say I have a problem with the way the shopsmith is done. I'd rather turn the dial then go back to matching pulley systems and figuring the closes speed to the one I want...... Just look at the tables on a drill press or lathe that is done that way, yea the rpm's are there but it is a table to read and work with.
Option one, take a table of what you think you want, print it out and cut to fit somewhere on the shopsmith and glue in place... hang it in a plastic folder or go to some printing service and have a 4'x5' sign made and hang it somewhere.
Option two, If you want a dial marked in RPM the simple solution is to make it yourself. A hunk of plastic cut to size... computer generated graphics of your choise and glue it in place... You can even mark the 1.6 X speeds and the 7:1 reductions and add what ever else you want. Don't like to work with plastic??? How about a wood design with woodburned rpm??
Option three, buy an rpm gauge for about $30.
I could go on but if the railing is a personal deal between you and shopsmith then I don't think you will be happy with anything less then a new dial, and in that case I can't help you with that.
Ed
Can't say I have a problem with the way the shopsmith is done. I'd rather turn the dial then go back to matching pulley systems and figuring the closes speed to the one I want...... Just look at the tables on a drill press or lathe that is done that way, yea the rpm's are there but it is a table to read and work with.
Option one, take a table of what you think you want, print it out and cut to fit somewhere on the shopsmith and glue in place... hang it in a plastic folder or go to some printing service and have a 4'x5' sign made and hang it somewhere.
Option two, If you want a dial marked in RPM the simple solution is to make it yourself. A hunk of plastic cut to size... computer generated graphics of your choise and glue it in place... You can even mark the 1.6 X speeds and the 7:1 reductions and add what ever else you want. Don't like to work with plastic??? How about a wood design with woodburned rpm??
Option three, buy an rpm gauge for about $30.
I could go on but if the railing is a personal deal between you and shopsmith then I don't think you will be happy with anything less then a new dial, and in that case I can't help you with that.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
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chiroindixon
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