Shopsmith Forums

Are the bearings (the inner race) on both bearings frozen?

No motor shops??? Where are you located?

dusty wrote: ↑Thu Mar 28, 2024 7:35 am Are the bearings (the inner race) on both bearings frozen?

No motor shops??? Where are you located?

Sleeve bearings do not have 'races'. ;>}

dusty wrote: ↑Thu Mar 28, 2024 7:35 am No motor shops??? Where are you located?

I have to drive half way across the state to the nearest motor shop.

edma194 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 28, 2024 9:53 am

dusty wrote: ↑Thu Mar 28, 2024 7:35 am No motor shops??? Where are you located?

I have to drive half way across the state to the nearest motor shop.

Yes but remember we are talking about Rhode Island.

JPG wrote: ↑Thu Mar 28, 2024 9:45 am

dusty wrote: ↑Thu Mar 28, 2024 7:35 am Are the bearings (the inner race) on both bearings frozen?

No motor shops??? Where are you located?

Sleeve bearings do not have 'races'. ;>}

Ok

jsburger wrote: ↑Tue Mar 26, 2024 8:27 pm I agree that motors are not installed in the same orientation. Today we have sealed bearings that don't matter. In the past when we had motor bearings that needed to be lubricated. They were designed for the specific application (orientation direction) with the oil cups up so they could be lubricated. Again it makes no sense that the holes are 90° off. I can see both being 90° off or 180° off. I think those holes have nothing to do with oil. Your motor's end caps look very similar to the OP's but without the holes. The holes may have had an orginal design purpose that never materialized. A set screw perhaps?

My ports were 90 degrees off from each other when I got the PS used, with the shaft end horizontal. They have caps that are the same as Dennis' pic. In that other thread, IIRC, Dennis also said his were originally 90 off from each other. I suspect SS spec'd it this way. If they are installed as I think the should be, fill port up, the shaft end oil port is not accessible or even visible when the motor is installed. But did SS really do this for servicing and then fail to put servicing in the manual? That doesn't seem logical.

Contrary to that though, in the OP's photos it looks like his ports are vertical and up. I don't see any caps.

My ports are going to be up, I can live with pulling the motor to service it. (Not really, I've moved on to the mini. But I'm going to do it once before I get rid of the PS.) Because after this thread I think the bearings should also be checked for freeplay not less often than each servicing. OP's photos appear to show mechanical contact between rotor and stator, which I equate to excessive radial free play before, perhaps not long before, the bearing seized.

- David

So I did reach out to shopsmith; they do not have any power station motors or components available. Their advice was to find a local repair shop and replace or repair my motor. The more I look at the motor, I am increasingly confident (It may be the Tylenol talking) I could replace the sleeve bushings/bearings myself. The one in the back bell (not sure about terminology) is still in good shape I think, so I should be able to get good measurements on the ID. I just can't 100% figure out how to remove the damaged one (it's really beat up) and determine it's size/shape, etc. I work with a number of very skilled mechanics; I should check with some of them and see if they would be interested in making a few bucks to help me out.

I did find what I believe to be decent replacement motors at Grizzly.com for less than I've found other places; plus free shipping. They have a totally enclosed motor and an open one. Best I can tell from the specs either should work. the "N" (best I can tell is the length of shaft sticking out) measurement is a little different,but I should be able to work with either; may just need to position the pulley a little different between the two.
https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzl ... 220v/g2904
https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzl ... 220v/g2531

Thanks for all the input!

Those are good prices from Grizzly. For the cost difference, I'd definitely get the TEFC motor. When I pulled my OEM Power Station motor apart, the insides were pretty well gunked up with sawdust -- especially the rear oil reservoir. The rear oil port wouldn't accept oil until I cleaned it out.

IIWM... Having used several SPTs on the old 3/4HP Mark 5 as well as the newer 1-1/8HP, if I was changing the motor in the PS I would go with 1 HP. I agree with Dennis on TEFC.

I don't know about installation and removal of the bushing/sleeve, but original ID would be the OD of the shaft, which I think is 5/8". Right? If you find the right sleeve I suggest posting that here, I suspect many of us have worn sleeves.

Dusty mentioned early in the thread that he saw evidence of a possible short in the windings. I didn't see what he was talking about, perhaps he can expand on that. I saw evidence of the rotor hitting the stator, probably due to excessive wear of the shaft end bushing before it seized. Clearance may need to be cleaned up a bit if you repair.

- David

DLB wrote: ↑Tue Apr 02, 2024 9:18 am IIWM... Having used several SPTs on the old 3/4HP Mark 5 as well as the newer 1-1/8HP, if I was changing the motor in the PS I would go with 1 HP. I agree with Dennis on TEFC.

I don't know about installation and removal of the bushing/sleeve, but original ID would be the OD of the shaft, which I think is 5/8". Right? If you find the right sleeve I suggest posting that here, I suspect many of us have worn sleeves.

Dusty mentioned early in the thread that he saw evidence of a possible short in the windings. I didn't see what he was talking about, perhaps he can expand on that. I saw evidence of the rotor hitting the stator, probably due to excessive wear of the shaft end bushing before it seized. Clearance may need to be cleaned up a bit if you repair.

- David

I thought I saw a spot that was discolored by a close visual and ohm meter readings are the only way to tell for sure.