cleaning table saw bed
Moderators: HopefulSSer, admin
cleaning table saw bed
I've been searching here for an answer, I just can't find it, so apologies for asking a simple question. I have a SS 500, and the aluminum table top has a lot of oxidation. I bought it a month ago, and I'm working thru cleanup and adjusting. What's the best way to clean the oxidation off and protect the surface of the saw top? Thanks in advance.
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HopefulSSer
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- Location: NC
Re: cleaning table saw bed
Mine had some (not lots) oxidation and I block sanded it with fine (so as not to make it wavy) wet-or-dry sandpaper then waxed it with paste wax. Any furniture paste wax is fine (avoid auto waxes because a lot of them contain silicone).
Greenie SN 362819 (upgraded to 510), Bandsaw 106878, Jointer SS16466
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br549
- Platinum Member
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- Location: Midway between Houston/Galveston, TX
Re: cleaning table saw bed
I agree with HopefulSSer, only I went a little more aggressive, starting with 60 grit. I had drawn red magic marker guide lines on my table, and then covered with polyurethane varnish to keep lines from wearing off. Bad idea. The flat sanding block is the key. The wider (11") the better. Sand front to back. Resist the urge to "go after" the low spots. Sand the high spots until the low spots are reached. Then use finer grits until all scratches from previous grits disappear. I did the same thing to a second table I purchased recently which had oxidation and some scratches.
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Re: cleaning table saw bed
I worked on a ‘54 Greenie restoration a few years back, and I really wanted to do a good job on the table, as I was going for a “showroom new” restoration (or at least a reasonable facsimile!)
Being 65+ years old at the time, the table was pretty grimy and oxidized, but not deeply corroded, stained, or scratched. So, I started with a 100-grit sanding pad (for a little extra efficiency, put it under an electric orbital sander), followed by some lighter steel wool. I wanted to maintain the original finish machining marks in the table surface, so I followed the path of those as much as possible. To get it to really shine at the end, I used Blue Magic Metal Polish (available on Amazon). Sorry I don’t have a before pic, but here’s the result:
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Being 65+ years old at the time, the table was pretty grimy and oxidized, but not deeply corroded, stained, or scratched. So, I started with a 100-grit sanding pad (for a little extra efficiency, put it under an electric orbital sander), followed by some lighter steel wool. I wanted to maintain the original finish machining marks in the table surface, so I followed the path of those as much as possible. To get it to really shine at the end, I used Blue Magic Metal Polish (available on Amazon). Sorry I don’t have a before pic, but here’s the result:
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John Dalton
Massachusetts
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1948 10E, S/N 5052 (restored)
1950 10ER, S/N 26473 (restored)
1952 10ER, S/N 51721 (restored as dedicated drill press)
1954 Mark 5, S/N 263334 (functionally restored)
1954 Mark 5, S/N 263705 (restored/PowerPro)
c1959 Mark 2, S/N 81940 (undergoing restoration)
Massachusetts
*****************************************
1948 10E, S/N 5052 (restored)
1950 10ER, S/N 26473 (restored)
1952 10ER, S/N 51721 (restored as dedicated drill press)
1954 Mark 5, S/N 263334 (functionally restored)
1954 Mark 5, S/N 263705 (restored/PowerPro)
c1959 Mark 2, S/N 81940 (undergoing restoration)