The conclusion at this time is that you still have a problem. When you grabbed the coupler and the bandsaw stopped did the headstock spindle shaft keep turning. If YES then the problem is probably in the coupler itself. Are the splines inside the coupler still there or are they worn down? Check the coupler and we can go from there. Also check that the splined hub on the bandsaw drive wheel is also tight.
Bill V
The motor turns on, you can see it spinning, when I grasp the coupler the motor continues to operate but the *not sure what it is called* spindle thing?, stops moving... maybe the belt slipping inside the headstock? The belts inside look really good, surprisingly good for the age, I am sure my grandpa has replaced them at one time.
EDIT: The part I point too, where the wood when lathing goes also stops turning when I hold the coupler...
That is really odd? I know there is no way i would even attempt to try and stop my SS with my hand on the coupler as there is no way I would be able to do that. There is definitely something not right inside your headstock with the drive train no way you should be able to stop the machine with your hand like that not to mention it isn't exactly a safe thing to be trying to do. I would check the tension on the sheave shaft (not sure of the exact name) that has the eccentric bushing on it to tighten the poly-V/Gilmer belt. I am thinking that if that adjustment were really loose then you could probably do what you are doing in the video.
Michael Mayo
Senior IT Support Engineer
Soft Designs Inc. albiemanmike@gmail.com
1960's SS Mark VII, 1954 Greenie, 1983 Mark V, Jointer, Bandsaw, Jigsaw, Dewalt Slider, Delta Super 10, Delta 8" Grinder, Craftsman compressor, Drill Doctor, Kreg PH Jig, Bosch Jigsaw, Craftsman Router and Table...........and adding more all the time....
jcraigie wrote:Just a thought... you said the belts look "new" you may have to long of a belt and just slips like crazy because it's so loose.
I agree I would never even think to try and grab ahold of the coupler:eek:
I think that eliminates the band saw as the 'cause'.
I cannot tell in your video, but does the quill shaft also slow down when the coupler is 'grabbed'?
If so the poly-v belt is slipping. Were is the eccentric set? <<< Just re-read your post. Ignore the 'if so' part!
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
rele wrote:Okay, I ran out there again and fired it up, fine, but then I decided to grab the plastic coupler from the headstock to the band saw and I was able to stop it with little force really. What is the conclusion?
If you have a Poly-V drive (60s and later), then just tighten the Poly-V belt. If you have a Gilmer drive, then the drive sleeve clutch is slipping. Remove the belt cover and see if you have grooves (Poly-V or teeth (Gilmer drive) and you should be able to see the problem.
If you have a Gilmer Drive, I have rebuild Drive Sleeve clutch assemblies available. Check the below web sites for instructions.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
JPG40504 wrote:I think that eliminates the band saw as the 'cause'.
I cannot tell in your video, but does the quill shaft also slow down when the coupler is 'grabbed'?
If so the poly-v belt is slipping. Were is the eccentric set?
ya, I can confirm that the bandsaw is fine, it is obvious now. I am not sure what the quill or the eccentic set is, the belt that goes from the motor to the I guess it would accessory is likely slipping, I will get another video tomorrow with the belts exposed to see a bit better.
I checked on the parts list site and the image they have of the belts look like the ones in the machine, IE the blue writing on them.
rele wrote:ya, I can confirm that the bandsaw is fine, it is obvious now. I am not sure what the quill or the eccentic set is, the belt that goes from the motor to the I guess it would accessory is likely slipping, I will get another video tomorrow with the belts exposed to see a bit better.
I checked on the parts list site and the image they have of the belts look like the ones in the machine, IE the blue writing on them.
The poly-v belt runs between the idler shaft and the main shaft. The tension is adjusted by rotating the eccentric in the idler shaft after loosening it to allow rotating the eccentric. Although it will work either way, I recommend the wide side of the eccentric be between 7 and 11 when the tension is increased.
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
When you grabbed the coupler and the bandsaw stopped did the headstock spindle shaft keep turning. If YES then the problem is probably in the coupler itself. Are the splines inside the coupler still there or are they worn down? Check the coupler and we can go from there. Also check that the splined hub on the bandsaw drive wheel is also tight.
I believe/hope that you have a loose belt