Living Room Sofa Table

A great, multi-purpose table that’s designed to look great, no matter where you use it!

plans - mpphoto

Imagine how beautiful a professional-quality table like this will look in your living room, dining room or hall. You could position it against that empty wall that you’ve never quite figured out what to do with. Or, how about behind your sofa displaying flowers or your favorite family photos. Or, even in the dining room, showing-off the family’s heirloom china serving pieces. The list goes on.

Whatever use you find for it, you’ll quickly discover that these plans will guide you, step-by-step through the various processes you need to follow to create a fine piece of furniture that you’ll be proud to display in any room of your home for years (and generations) to come. And you’ll be even more proud when you can say to your friends and family…”Thanks for the compliment – I built it myself”. So…..let’s get started.

(finished dimensions in inches)

ATop (1)3/4 x 16 x 56
BFrame Rails (2)3/4 x 3-1/2 x 55-1/2
CFrame Stiles (2)3/4 x 3-1/2 x 8-1/2
DBottom Ends (2)3/4 x 2-1/2 x 11-1/4
ETop Ends (2)3/4 x 5-1/4 x 11-1/4
FBottom Rail (1)3/4 x 2-1/2 x 52-1/2
GFacings (2)3/4 x 5-1/4 x 51-1/4
HLegs (4)2 x 2 x (2-7/8 diagonal cut) x 25-1/2
ILeg Caps (4)2 diameter (half round) x 25-1/2
 3/8 Dowel Pins (8)
plans - legs

1: Glue-up the stock you’ll need to create the Table Top (A) and allow it to dry thoroughly for 24 hours.
TIP: Shopsmith’s special Double Bar Clamps will make it easy for you to assemble and hold these pieces flush and square while they dry. After 24 hours, cut the Top to final size and sand smooth.

2: Cut parts B,C,D,E,F,& G to size according to the List of Materials.

3: Cut two pieces of stock to 2″ x 2″ x 25-1/2″. Tilt your MARK V’s Saw Table to 45- degrees and rip each of these two pieces lengthwise to make four right-triangle-shaped Legs (H). See Fig. 1.

plans - legclamp

Using your Shaper Package with a Bead & Quarter-Round Cutter — or your Router Package with a 1/4″ Router Chuck and a 3/8″ Round-Over Router Bit to lightly round off all three edges of the triangular shape, the full length of all four Legs (H).

4: Using your Lathe, turn two spindles 2″ in diameter by 25-1/2″ long. Locate the centers of each turned spindle and cut them in half lengthwise to create the four Leg Caps (I). The easiest way to accomplish this is by tilting your MARK V or Bandsaw Table to 45-degrees and using your Rip Fence to form a V-Block jig to help you guide your turned spindles through the cuts. See Fig. 2.

5: Assemble the Frame Rails (B) and Frame Stiles (C) using 3/8″ dowel pins and glue. See Fig. 3.

6: Cut the 1-3/4″ x 3/8″ x 3/8″ mortises and tenons in the Bottom Ends (D), as shown in Fig. 4.

plans - frame
plans - bottomend

Mortising & Tenoning Tips: Mortising can be accomplished by boring a series of 3/8″ diameter holes to remove the majority of the stock, then squaring everything up using a bevel edged wood chisel.

If you’re in a hurry and would like to do the job more quickly, use the Shopsmith Mortising Package on your MARK V. It will bore perfect, square mortises much more quickly than the drill-out method.

Tenoning can be accomplished by laying your workpieces flat on your Table Saw Table and cutting the tenons with a Dado Blade. As an option, you could also elect to stand your workpieces on end and cut the tenons with the aid of a tenoning jig such as Shopsmith’s Tenon-Master. It will hold your stock perpendicular to your worktable as you make your cuts with a regular saw blade.

plans - topends

7: Cut the 4-1/2″ x 3/8″ x 3/8″ tenons in the Top Ends (E), as shown in Fig. 5.

8: Cut the 1-3/4″ x 3/8″ x 3/8″ mortises and tenons in the Bottom Rail (F), as shown in Fig. 6.

9: Cut the 4-1/2″ x 3/8″ x 3/8″ tenons in the Facings (G), as shown in Fig. 7.

10: Cut the 4-1/2″ x 3/8″ x 3/8″ – and 1-3/4″ x 3/8″ x 3/8″ mortises in the Legs (H). Follow the diagrams in Fig. 1. carefully for placement of these mortises, especially at the bottoms (See Fig. 1.).

plans - facings

11: Use your Bandsaw, Scroll Saw or a hand-held sabre saw to cut out the curves in the bottom of the long Facings, as shown in Fig 7.

IDEA: The look of this table can be changed completely by merely changing the shape and design of the two facings (G). For example…make the facings completely straight – or add some fretwork cut-outs – the options are endless.

12: After your glue has dried for 24 hours, use your Shopsmith Shaper or Router Package to form the decorative Ogee design around the perimeter of the assembled Top Frame. Use Shopsmith’s Ogee Shaper Cutter or Ogee Router Bit to make these cuts.

13: Once again, using your Shaper (with >Bead & Quarter-Round Cutter) or Router set-up (with a special beading bit – NOT Shopsmith’s 555230 or 555238), cut the bead and bevel designs on the Bottom Ends (D), Top Ends (E), Facings (G) and both surfaces of the Bottom Rail (F). Refer to Figures 4A, 5A, 6A and 7A.

14: Using your Shaper or Router set-up, cut the round-over edge around the perimeter of the Top (A) – OR – cut another shape, as you desire.

15: Sand all parts smooth for assembly

plans - assem 2

Following the exploded diagram (Fig. 8), begin the assembly of your Table in the following described sequence:

1: Glue and clamp Top (A) to Frame (B&C).

2: Glue and clamp Legs (H) to Leg Caps (>I).

3: Glue and clamp Leg Assemblies (H, I) to Bottom Ends (D) and Top Ends (E).

4: Glue and clamp Facings (G) to Leg Assemblies (H>,I) – and Bottom Rail (F>) to Bottom Ends (D).

5: Glue and clamp Table Top Assembly (B,C) to Leg and Frame Assembly (D,E,F,G,H,I).

6: Finish sand and stain completed Table with the color of your choice.